Exotically yours

Here’s more on the previously promised Moroccan Chicken Tagine, a slow cooked collection of assorted vegetables and chicken perfumed with exotic spices, citrus, and fresh herbs.  

If you are looking for an authentic touch, consider something like this Le Souk pottery tagine, courtesy of Amazon.com. The unique sloping top creates an oven of sorts and the slow cooking process encourages the retention of moisture, thus luxuriously bathing the tagine mixture and intensifying flavors. 

Turns out, the tagine is actually another one-pot-wonder, complete with vegetables and desired meat.  Natural accompaniments are an easy couscous and of course, the earlier mentioned hot and spicy harissa.

A tagine is perfect for entertaining since it is completely prepared in advance and benefits from slow unattended cooking - consider it the pre-cursor to contemporary crock pot cooking.  If the fabulous cookware is not available for a showy presentation, le creuset or any other heavy crockery will work just fine.   The recipe that follows uses standard stove top preparation. 

 

Chicken Tagine with Couscous

Inspired by Martha Rose Shulman’s Mediterranean Light cookbook

Ingredients:

·         3 lb chicken, cut up and skinned

·         1 Tbsp olive oil

·         2 onions, sliced

·         4 cloves garlic minced or pressed

·         2 carrots, sliced

·         2 turnips, peeled and diced

·         2 stalks celery, sliced

·         1 tsp cumin

·         ½ tsp ginger

·         ½ tsp turmeric

·         1 bay leaf

·         3 cup chicken stock

·         1 tsp paprika

·         1 cup garbanzo beans

·         ¼ tsp saffron

·         2 small zucchini, sliced

·         4 Tbsp lemon juice

·         coarse salt, pepper and cayenne to taste

·         ¼ cup cilantro,  chopped

·         2 Tbsp parsley, chopped

Couscous:

·         ¾ lb couscous

·         2 cups chicken stock

Garnish:  cilantro, lemon slices, harissa (see index)

Directions: 

For tagine: heat oil in large casserole over medium heat and sauté onions and garlic until tender, 5-10 minutes.  Add carrots, turnips, and celery, sauté briefly.

Add chicken, cumin, ginger, turmeric, bay, stock and lightly salt.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer gently 45 minutes to 1 hour until chicken is tender; stir occasionally. 

Add paprika, garbanzos, saffron, zucchini and lemon juice; simmer 15 minutes until zucchini is tender but bright green.  Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and cayenne. To finish, stir in parsley and cilantro.

    

For couscous:  Pour boiling stock over the couscous, cover and let stand 10 minutes until stock is absorbed.  Fluff with a fork. 

To serve, spoon couscous onto plates and ladle chicken, vegetables and some of the broth over the couscous.  Garnish with cilantro and lemon and pass the harissa.  Serves: 6-8

Hurrah for Harissa!

I was craving harissa the other day and had to dig out this long forgotten African recipe.   Harissa is an addictive, blazing hot chile condiment, often including cumin, caraway (important), coriander, lots of garlic, and bound together with olive oil, much like a pesto.

This particular sauce was one of the stars of an amazing African Dinner I created several years ago for Dinner Classics, an international cooking class series.  The evening featured an African Art collection showcased by a local art gallery, and pairings of fantastic wines – African and otherwise. 

It was an ambitious undertaking but well worth the effort, since at that time African cuisine was fairly unfamiliar to most.  I hope the file is buried away somewhere and not lost, but I recall one of the appetizers was a popular street food, samosa,  fried pastry stuffed with a mixture of cooked potatoes, onions, peas, coriander, lentils or a meat item such as chicken, lamb or beef.   There was doro wat, a fabulously spicy Ethiopian chicken stew often eaten out of hand with a large thin sourdough pancake style bread called injera bread; and there was the wonderful South African curry finished with a custard topping, bobotie.  (Note to self:  find that file!)

However, in the interest of time this version of harissa comes from the always reliable Mediterranean Light cookbook, by Martha Rose Shulman.  It’s really delicious.  Did I say that yet?

Actually, I’ve been enjoying it with Chicken Tagine and Couscous, another blast from the past.  Tagines are so popular in Morocco that they actually have their own pot created just for that purpose - as does couscous.  If I can get my act together, I’ll at least share that with you soon!

In the interim this sauce is good on literally anything that benefits from a spicy kick – from egg foo young to stuffed cabbage!  No kidding.

Harissa 

Inspired by Martha Rose Shulman’s Mediterranean Light cookbook

·         20 dried hot red chile peppers

·         1 tsp caraway seed

·         ½ tsp cumin seed

·         1 tsp coriander seed

·         3 cloves garlic, peeled and mashed

·         ½ tsp salt

·         approximately 1 cup boiling water

·         3 Tbsp olive oil

Directions:

Place chile peppers in a small bowl and pour boiling water to cover over them; let them soak approximately 45 minutes.  Drain them and reserve 1-2 Tbsp water; de-stem and seed, if desired.

Meanwhile, grind the spices and set aside.

Place the chile peppers in blender or food processor, add 1-2 Tbsp. of  the water and puree; add the spice mixture, garlic, salt, and puree. Slowly add approximately 2 Tbsp. olive oil to form thick sauce.

Transfer to a bowl or storage container.  Cover with remaining olive oil and seal tightly.  Yield: @ 1/3 cup.

To Halve or Halve Not

It took a bumper crop or two of my own cherry tomatoes before I realized the full extent of their versatility.  That is, after I acquired a little restraint and learned to resist the unwieldy urge of eating them fresh off the vine. 

Here’s a very handy idea, so easy and adaptable that it is hardly a recipe.  (Of course, there as so many varieties of these sweet  babies, any of them will work just fine).   I refer to this concept simply as Marinated Cherry Tomatoes, but beyond that there are plenty of ways to proceed depending on time, need and preference:  such as to halve, or halve not; or to cook, or to go raw.

One lovely compromise is to heat the marinade and pour it over the tomatoes.  This is truly delicious with a little aged balsamic vinegar, truffle oil, and a couple of fresh herbs.  If the tomatoes are whole and left to stand and marinate, the skins will ultimately crack and burst.  

In the previous entry which includes Lentils and Kale, the marinated tomatoes are shown as a relish, an added topping.  The zinginess of the vinegar provides a bit of punch and color that brightens this hearty dish.

An old favorite is to serve the marinated tomatoes as a topping for bruschetta or crostini.  Then consider whether to serve them straight up, as is, or to broil them topped with a melting cheese, such as provolone or chevre. 

There’s always the magically appearing salad where the marinated tomatoes supply an utterly effortless all-in-one salad complement.  They provide the necessary dressing and also star atop a lovely melange of fresh greens and herbs.  When I make these ahead, I bring the tomatoes to room temperature before serving, and their sweetness really shines.

Marinated Baby Tomatoes

Ingredients:

·         1 tbsp. olive oil

·         2 cloves garlic flattened and sliced into slivers

·         1 tsp. fresh herbs such as thyme, rosemary and or savory

·         ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes or more, or coarse ground pepper

·         ½ tsp. coarse salt

·         1 basket or more baby tomatoes, halved or not

·         ¼ cup sherry vinegar, balsamic or vinegar of choice

·         1-2 green onions, chopped

Directions: 

1.       In small sauté pan heat olive oil over low/moderate heat and add the garlic and herbs.  Allow the flavors to infuse the oil, 3- 5 minutes.

 

2.       Add the tomatoes and toss to combine; add the vinegar and bring to gentle simmer, cook 2-3 minutes.  Remove from heat and add the green onions.  Serves 6 approximately.

My Plate

I’m embarrassed to admit that I missed the memo from the US government.  The one saying they had eliminated the Food Pyramid and were replacing it with MyPlate. Apparently the old one was too complicated.   

According to Michelle Obama, “When mom or dad comes home from a long day of work, we’re already asked to be a chef, a referee, a cleaning crew. So it’s tough to be a nutritionist, too. But we do have time to take a look at our kids’ plates. As long as they’re half full of fruits and vegetables, and paired with lean proteins, whole grains and low-fat dairy, we’re golden. That’s how easy it is.”

Whatever it takes.  The new plate graphic is a cool idea, and it’s probably more relevant when it comes to eating, but does it really address the larger problem?   Yes, sensible food choices are critical – but what about those enormous food portions and the size of the plate?  And, what about those times when there is no plate?  Does that count? 

America’s fascination with an easy taco, a quick burger, or any other overly processed foods is a clear indicator that we are governed by our impulses.  We are looking for a fast fix to fill that empty void.  Sadly, that need is not long satisfied by plowing through a half-pounder, a side of fries, and washing it down with a Big Gulp.

Admittedly, my eating habits have gotten out of hand too, so I’m taking this summer to re-visit them and get a grip.  For the past couple of years or so, my excuse has been that I’m adjusting to a cooler climate and I’ve naturally gravitated to eating heavier meals.  Also, with longer days away from home, I’ve rationalized quick energy snacks and the need for more “brain food.”  Wow, how handy for the trail mix, the peanut butter, and perhaps some more of that chocolate for good measure. 

Which brings me back to the My Pyramid Tracker, likely now obsolete and incorporated in the new MyPlate site.  I’ve used this site for monitoring daily intake and usage. It has improved over the past year and  seems to have many of the earlier kinks worked out for tracking meals, searching for nutritional values, sorting out food requirements and much more.   Another site worth checking out for their exercise component is My Fitness Pal, I use their Recipe section to enter personal recipes for nutritional analysis breakdown.   

With my new eating regimen, I’ve noticed that the focus on whole grains, beans and pulses really does work.  I find I am not hungry as often and my energy stays at a higher more consistent level.  Still, this is all pretty new to me, so I’m spending more time in the advance prep stage.  But once prepared, I don’t mind having a repeat of the same dish, and my freezer is filling up nicely with meals for later.  Another plus beyond feeling better, is that a visit to the bulk food section of my market is far less expensive than a walk down the meat aisle. 

Here’s a lentil dish I especially enjoyed in the early stages of my Meat Reduction Program.  At the time, the addition of a limited amount of grilled turkey Polish sausage seemed like a big enough sacrifice.  As time has gone on, and I’ve increased the pulses, whole grains and beans, I’ve noticed my need for meat has greatly diminished. But, then again, there's nothing like a great burger...

Lentils, Kale and Sausage 

Inspired by EatingWell magazine

Ingredients:

·         1 tbsp. olive oil, divided

·         12 oz. precooked turkey sausage, such as kielbasa

·         1 large onion

·         2-3 cloves garlic

·         ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes

·         ½ tsp. thyme

·         1 bay leaf

·         2 tbsp. celery leaves (from celery below)

·         1 carrot, peeled, chopped

·         1 cup green lentils, rinsed

·         2 stalks celery

·         1 poblano pepper, seeded and chopped

·         5 cups chicken stock, or part water/bouillon

·         12 cups kale, cleaned, stripped from stalk and chopped

·         ½ tsp. salt and pepper each

Directions: 

1.       Heat a deep pot over medium heat, coat with about 2 tsp. olive oil and brown the sausage on all side.  Remove the sausage and let cool.

2.       Add the remaining oil and onion to the pot to soften, then add the garlic and toss until aromatic.  Add the red pepper and spices, then the celery leaves, carrot, and pepper.  Deglaze the pot with stock, and bring all to a simmer.

3.       Add the lentils and simmer partially covered for 30-40 minutes, or until nearly tender.   Stir in the kale and simmer 10-15 minutes longer.  Taste for seasoning and top with sliced sausage.  Serves 6. 

Delicious topped with Baby Tomatoes marinated in Sherry Vinegar. 

Ratatouille Relevance

The sun finally came out of hiding this past week. It warmed into the 80’s, a heart-stopping heat wave that suggested our eternal winter was finally over. (Be still, my heart!)

Meanwhile, the rest of the US swelters, or is underwater with flooding, so I can’t complain about our conditions. Still, I feel as if I have been living in a dark tunnel for the past several months and am blinded by the light. What I know, is that the sun rejuvenates me and turns my life up several notches. I’m happier and life’s simplest pleasures take on new meaning.

And so it was, when I noticed the shiny purple orbs at the market recently. Likely, I have brushed up against eggplant this season, but merely skipped over them, unimpressed and undaunted. Suddenly it was as if a spotlight beamed down upon them, showcasing a chorus of come-hither halos. A must-have event.

Later, I dug out my old ratatouille recipe and dusted off the grill. Clearly, the sun had cast its spell on me. Just the process of slicing and dicing the season’s vegetables was enough to make me smile. A quick sear on the grill was all that was needed to infuse them with a slight smokiness and by-pass the tedious olive oil sauté process. Since there was still plenty of fire on the coals I dawdled over grilling a few chicken breasts – no hurry to return indoors.

Back in the kitchen with the cooled veggies and a handful of snipped garden herbs, I layered the veggies into a heavy pot. A gentle simmer on the back of the stove was all it took to create magic. The results: a transformation from the jumble of summer vegetables into a velvety mélange, an elegant reminder of all that is possible. If I pay attention.

Grilled Ratatouille

A great summer accompaniment to grilled meats or fish. The preliminary grilling precooks the veggies and adds a smoky dimension. For a make ahead addition, consider a tangy tabouli with bulgur wheat. Inspired by Judy Zeidler's The Gourmet Jewish Cook.

1 medium eggplant, ¾” slices

2 medium zucchini, ½” lengthwise, thick slices

½ red onion, ½” thick round slices

1 whole red pepper

1 whole green pepper, preferably poblano

cooking spray

3-4 medium tomatoes, medium dice

2 tbsp. olive oil, divided

2-3 cloves garlic, minced

3 tbsp. mixed herbs: thyme, savory, marjoram, chop

coarse salt and pepper

Tabasco to taste

Spray the eggplant on both sides and place the slices on a very hot grill.  Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and turn when well marked.  Proceed in same fashion with the zucchini, peppers, and onion.  Remove each when marked on both sides; place the peppers in a plastic bag and seal to allow skins to loosen.  Allow the vegetables to cool and cut into square chunks. Seed, peel the peppers and do the same.

In a heavy pot over medium heat, add about 2 tsp. olive oil and half of the garlic, cooking until it is fragrant but not brown.  Remove the pot from heat and add about  1/3 of the tomatoes and toss lightly.  Layer half of the onions on top and sprinkle a little of the mixed herbs along with a bit of salt and pepper.  Layer in half of each the eggplant, zucchini, the peppers, and drizzle on a bit of olive oil and sprinkle with more herbs. Add another layer of tomatoes, onions, and then layer the other veggies.  Sprinkle with more herbs, and finish with the last of the tomatoes, a bit more salt and pepper, and drizzle the top with a bit more olive oil.

Return the pot to medium heat and when it comes to a low boil, reduce the heat to low.  Cover well and lightly simmer.  After 10 minutes, gently toss the mixture once or twice and cover.  Repeat every 10 minutes or so, for a total of about 40 minutes.  Additional liquid will have formed.  Remove the lid, add a few shakes of Tabasco and increase the heat to moderate. Bring to a low simmer and reduce the liquid, another 10-15 minutes.  The veggies should still hold their shape and be identifiable, but they will be silky and the flavors will meld together.  Taste for seasoning and serve hot, room temperature, or cold.

Lentils, Part 2: It’s All About the Sprouts

Yes, I’m still stuck on lentils, and now it’s all about the sprouts.  I’m not sure how I managed to miss the sprouting phase of my development – I recall playing around with sprouts, but was never completely won over by the idea.  

Of course, sporadically I’ll pick up a carton or a handful of alfalfa or radish sprouts and enjoy them in sandwiches or scattered in salads and move on.   Naturally, bean sprouts are pretty essential in Asian dishes, but they tend to simply meet the need and seem starchy and wood-like.

Perhaps it's because I’m so impressed with French le puy lentils that I decided to sprout a few out of curiosity.  I was warned, but failed to heed the advice of beginning with a small quantity.  I started with 1 cup of lentils and within 3 day they had mushroomed into a huge bowlful.  I was happily sharing my magnificent crop with friends! Turns out, they are so enticingly flavorful, crunchy, and satisfying, that I began looking for new ways to incorporate them in my diet.

I’ll repeat again that sprouts are powerful packages of nutrition.  In fact, they are a seed and not a bean, that contains an amazing amount of dietary fiber, vitamin C and B’s, and minerals.  Further, they are high in phosphorous, rich in calcium, potassium, zinc and iron.  Since lentils are over 25% protein, they are often mixed with grains, such as rice, which results in a complete protein dish. 

It may be obvious how to sprout, but since I didn’t have a clue, here’s a handy guide:

1.  Rinse and pick through the lentils, removing any stones or chaff, and make certain they are whole, since splits will not sprout.  Place about ¾ cup in a medium bowl and cover with cool water.  Let soak 8-12 hours, or overnight.  They will quadruple in bulk, so consider what might be used within 7-10 days.

2.  Drain and rinse well to remove acids and toxins and place them in a jar or in a strainer over a bowl.  Cover with light towel to allow for circulation, and store in a cool semi-lit area, such as a cabinet or pantry.  Rinse and drain 2-3 times per day for 3 days or until sprouts form ½” tails or longer. 

3.  Place in indirect sunlight for several hours to allow chlorophyll to form and tails turn green. 

One Pot Wonder

I’ve been having a field day since my bulk food store started stocking French le puy lentils.  

 For my money, these green-blue beauties are the quintessential lentil since they hold their shape beautifully and they do not lose their color when cooked.   No, these lentils will not fade quietly into the night ― and their slight pepperiness offers endless possibilities as either a fabulously healthful entrée or an attractive side dish. 

Le puy lentils are versatile enough to either to stand in as a charming base for an entrée such as salmon or duck, or become the focal point of a vegetarian meal.  Salad with lentils can actually make sense (yay!) and become the perfect solution for buffets or picnics―no more dull, unappetizing blobs. 

 

This past weekend I was in the mood for another of my one-pot wonders.  This time I included lentils, collards and turkey kielbasa, each added to the pot when chopped and ready.  I started with my standard soup pot and added a cup or so of rinsed lentils covered with water, plus half an onion and some celery leaves.  While the lentils simmered I chopped up one bunch of tender collard greens, removing any tough cores, and added them along with 2 strips of chopped bacon, a dash of salt and 2 dried chile peppers.  When it came to a boil, I reduced the heat and covered the pot slightly. 

  

 In a separate pan I heated a bit of olive oil and sautéed the rest of the onion, 2 cloves of garlic, a bit of coriander, thyme and a pinch of allspice.  When that was aromatic I added one kielbasa cut in half lengthwise and chopped into 2 inch pieces along with a diced (Anaheim) pepper.   This simmered slightly covered, to allow all the flavors to incorporate.

Meanwhile, I chopped up 3 medium carrots and added them to the lentil pot.  When the lentils and collards had cooked about 30 minutes, I added the vegetables and sausage mixture to the lentils, tasted for seasoning, and simmered it all an additional 15-20 minutes.  I was finished and cleaned up within an hour.

Of course, my favorite part of this meal is the eating.  I’ll top the heated lentils with a chopped salad lightly dressed with olive oil and sherry vinegar, and then crumble a bit of bleu cheese over it all.   Wonderful.