Fifty Shades of Grey: The Dish

Today my joy knows no bounds because my mind and body are still reverberating from last night’s dinner.   I realize that chicken livers do not have that delirious affect on everyone, but they certainly can make me crazy when they are presented in a deeply satisfying, succulent, piping hot package. 
 

These guys, in fifty shades of grey, are not knock-out gorgeous and will not likely dazzle you with their hunky-chunky visual charm.  Let’s face it; chicken livers of this magnitude are not much to look at, but they are real sleepers and deliver a powerful complement of earth-shaking nutritional revitalization that will surely rock your world.  If you are looking for robust flavors and rip-roaring atavistic satisfaction, look no further. 

This is a riff on Vivian Howard’s Dirty Farro, prepared at her highly regarded restaurant, Chef & the Farmer, in Kinston, North Carolina. In her outstanding treatment, she combines a few chicken livers, breakfast sausage, and semi-pearled farro (a whole wheat grain) into an unctuous variation of the old southern favorite, dirty rice.   

I have taken Vivian’s concept and substituted cremini mushrooms, sage, savory, and allspice for the sausage; of course I increased the chicken livers, and added a healthy bunch of tender rainbow kale from the garden (the last of the season!).  So, if you aren’t big on chicken livers and love breakfast sausage, I urge you to try her excellent dish, which can be found at Epicurious.com.  

Dirty Farro
Inspired by Vivian Howard, Chef & The Farmer, Kinston, NC.  Courtesy of  Epicurious. com and Bon Appétit | February 2012

Ingredients

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1 cups semi-pearled faro
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoons kosher salt plus more
1/2 pound chicken livers, trimmed, large chop
1- ½ cups cremini mushrooms, large chop
1 medium onion, fine chop
1 stalk celery, fine chop
2 cloves garlic, mince
1 teaspoon sage leaves, minced
1 teaspoon savory leaves, minced
¼ teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 bunch kale, clean: about ¾ cup stems, chop; 6 cups leaves, large chop
1/3 cup thinly sliced scallions (dark-green parts only)
1/3 cup celery leaves from inner stalks

Instructions
In medium sized pot, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat. Add farro; stir until toasted, about 2 minutes. Add thyme, bay leaf and2 ½  cups water. Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Uncover, add ½ teaspoon salt, and simmer until farro is tender but still firm to the bite, about 20 minutes. Remove from pot and let cool.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in same pot over medium heat. Add the livers; cook, about 4 minutes, until they begin to color on the outside. Add the mushrooms and cook until they begin to release liquid.  Add onions, garlic, the herbs and spices, the kale stems, and a pinch of salt. Sauté for 2 minutes.

Add the kale leaves and approximately ½ cup water; bring to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, until liquid is reduced by about half, about 8 minutes. Stir in cooked farro; simmer until liquid is absorbed, about 5 minutes. Discard bay leaf. Stir in scallions; garnish with celery leaves. Yield:  4 servings.   

Caldo Tlalpeño

Here’s a soup that is right up there with the ever-popular Mexican Tortilla Soup.  A friendly relative recently wanted to know if I had a recipe for Caldo Tlalpeño―apparently a popular Mexican soup made with chicken, garbanzo beans and vegetables. Huh,  I didn’t have a clue; but it  was enough to set off  flashing lights and whistling bells because garbanzos are one of my favorite beans. I cannot get enough of their hearty flavor and texture.  Give me hummus any day; I sprinkle beans onto salads and include them in entrees to replace or extend meat.    

Since I had never heard of this soup, I was completely flummoxed, and based on its build-up I was really missing the boat.  This is when the internet becomes invaluable.  Before I could get my soup pot out and heated up I was ready to head back to Mexico and try the real deal.  I quickly learned that one of the signature elements of the soup is adobo, a robust smoky sauce soaked with chipotle peppers. 

Caldo Tlalpeño originates from Tlalpan, a highly revered ecological borough in the Federal District of Mexico City.  This heavily forested region has retained much of it provincial charm and is deeply rooted in its Mesoamerican heritage.   Who knew?

After consulting several different sites and recipes, I channeled my Querétaro señora and proceeded.  I started with a rotisserie chicken, the basis of many of my stocks these days.  A note on making a delicious and easy chicken stock: I’ve learned that while the chicken is still warm and moist from the market, the meat will literally fall off the bone and within 3 or 4 minutes it is completely deboned.  

For the stock, place the heap of bones in a soup pot, cover with 6 to 8 cups water, and simmer with onion and carrot trimmings left from the pre-prepped soup ingredients.  Add a stalk of celery or about ½ tsp. celery seed, a couple sprigs of thyme, a bay leaf, and few grinds of fresh pepper.  Bring to a boil and simmer for about one hour.  Strain the stock and allow it to cool and chill until needed.  When chilled, skim off any unnecessary fat congealed on top of the stock, and proceed.   

The soup can be prepared and is ready to eat in about 45 minutes but it is as good or better the next day.  The key ingredient, the adobo, varies greatly according to maker.  The day I made mine, I noticed the sauce was quite mild―primarily a tomato puree flavored with the chipotle.  You will need to bravely taste your adobo and use your judgment.  I’ve learned that in Mexico, the soup can range from mild to extremely hot.  Err on the side of caution the first time that you try a new adobo sauce; you can always add more!  I ended up using 2 chipotle peppers, seeded and chopped plus about 3 tbsp. of the adobo sauce.  My soup was spicy hot, but not a scorcher.  The following day, it was even milder. 

As with Tortilla Soup, tableside toppings are part of the fun and add to the full flavor of Caldo Tlalpeño.  A few squirts of fresh lime will brighten it; crumbled or grated cheese such as Cotija or other queso fresco offer a lingering saltiness; and cilantro leaves provide perky citrus and herbal notes.  Enjoy with tortilla chips or crush a few and sprinkle them on top, too.   

Caldo Tlalpeño 

Inspired by Gourmet, October 1993, per Epicurious 

Ingredients 

1 rotisserie chicken deboned, 2 – 3 cups meat, cut up; use the bones for quick stock

1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 onion, peeled and cut into medium chop

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and cut into medium chop

1 tsp dried oregano

8 cup chicken stock, approximately

1 plum tomato, seeded and chopped

2 drained canned whole chipotle chilies in adobo, seeded and chopped, plus 2-3 Tbsp. sauce

2 cups cooked chick-peas, rinsed and drained

1 ear corn, husk, remove silk and cut into ¾” rounds (optional)

1 zucchini, cut into medium chop

½ tsp. each salt and pepper

Toppings:  1 lime cut into wedges, 1 cup Cotijo, Panela or other crumbled or grated cheese, 1 cup cilantro leaves, 1 avocado, cut up.  Tortilla chips. 

Instructions            

1.       In a large heavy saucepan cook the onion in the oil over moderate heat, stirring, until it is softened, stir in the garlic, carrots and oregano and cook the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the reserved broth to the vegetable mixture with the tomato and the chipotles, adobo sauce, the corn and the garbanzos; simmer the soup for 15-20 minutes. 

2.       Add the zucchini, add salt and pepper; adjust seasoning,  and simmer 10 minutes.  The soup may be prepared up to this point 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.

 To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and add toppings as desired:  lime wedges, cheese, cilantro and serve with tortilla chips.  Yield:  6 servings. 

Winging it with Ricado

My new co-mother-in-law/friend, Helen, generously shared a popular seasoning blend called ricado brought back from a recent trip to Belize.  It was part of a requested stash located at a particular market for friends hungering for this traditional seasoning paste. 

Regional variations found throughout the Caribbean and Mexico characteristically feature achiote seeds, or its annatto pigment, which dyes the mixture red and gives meat or vegetables its distinctive red hue.  Belize’s spice mixture typically includes annatto, Mexican oregano, cumin, cinnamon, clove, black pepper, allspice, garlic, and salt.

The day Helen, my daughter, Shannon, and I decided to give our ricado a try, we had chicken wings on our minds and decided to see what would happen if we used the mild flavored paste as a rub.  The gorgeous results were infused with a mellow tropical touch.  We all agreed that a longer marinade would likely intensify the flavors.

We balanced out the wings with a big chopped salad and a thick bleu cheese dressing along with a huge platter of roasted red potatoes tossed with Montreal Steak Seasoning. Of course there was an assortment of wing and hot sauces for experimentation as well.  

Ingredients

·         1 cup ricado paste

·         ½ cup olive oil, or enough to thin into a rubbing sauce

·         4 lbs chicken wings

Directions 

Combine the paste and olive oil and rub it generously into the chicken wings.  Let marinate several hours or overnight.

Bake in a hot oven or on a grill over medium hot coals until the skin crisps and the wings are well cooked, about 45 minutes. Pass wing sauce of choice for dipping. Serves 4 to 6. 

Exotically yours

Here’s more on the previously promised Moroccan Chicken Tagine, a slow cooked collection of assorted vegetables and chicken perfumed with exotic spices, citrus, and fresh herbs.  

If you are looking for an authentic touch, consider something like this Le Souk pottery tagine, courtesy of Amazon.com. The unique sloping top creates an oven of sorts and the slow cooking process encourages the retention of moisture, thus luxuriously bathing the tagine mixture and intensifying flavors. 

Turns out, the tagine is actually another one-pot-wonder, complete with vegetables and desired meat.  Natural accompaniments are an easy couscous and of course, the earlier mentioned hot and spicy harissa.

A tagine is perfect for entertaining since it is completely prepared in advance and benefits from slow unattended cooking - consider it the pre-cursor to contemporary crock pot cooking.  If the fabulous cookware is not available for a showy presentation, le creuset or any other heavy crockery will work just fine.   The recipe that follows uses standard stove top preparation. 

 

Chicken Tagine with Couscous

Inspired by Martha Rose Shulman’s Mediterranean Light cookbook

Ingredients:

·         3 lb chicken, cut up and skinned

·         1 Tbsp olive oil

·         2 onions, sliced

·         4 cloves garlic minced or pressed

·         2 carrots, sliced

·         2 turnips, peeled and diced

·         2 stalks celery, sliced

·         1 tsp cumin

·         ½ tsp ginger

·         ½ tsp turmeric

·         1 bay leaf

·         3 cup chicken stock

·         1 tsp paprika

·         1 cup garbanzo beans

·         ¼ tsp saffron

·         2 small zucchini, sliced

·         4 Tbsp lemon juice

·         coarse salt, pepper and cayenne to taste

·         ¼ cup cilantro,  chopped

·         2 Tbsp parsley, chopped

Couscous:

·         ¾ lb couscous

·         2 cups chicken stock

Garnish:  cilantro, lemon slices, harissa (see index)

Directions: 

For tagine: heat oil in large casserole over medium heat and sauté onions and garlic until tender, 5-10 minutes.  Add carrots, turnips, and celery, sauté briefly.

Add chicken, cumin, ginger, turmeric, bay, stock and lightly salt.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer gently 45 minutes to 1 hour until chicken is tender; stir occasionally. 

Add paprika, garbanzos, saffron, zucchini and lemon juice; simmer 15 minutes until zucchini is tender but bright green.  Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and cayenne. To finish, stir in parsley and cilantro.

    

For couscous:  Pour boiling stock over the couscous, cover and let stand 10 minutes until stock is absorbed.  Fluff with a fork. 

To serve, spoon couscous onto plates and ladle chicken, vegetables and some of the broth over the couscous.  Garnish with cilantro and lemon and pass the harissa.  Serves: 6-8

My Plate

I’m embarrassed to admit that I missed the memo from the US government.  The one saying they had eliminated the Food Pyramid and were replacing it with MyPlate. Apparently the old one was too complicated.   

According to Michelle Obama, “When mom or dad comes home from a long day of work, we’re already asked to be a chef, a referee, a cleaning crew. So it’s tough to be a nutritionist, too. But we do have time to take a look at our kids’ plates. As long as they’re half full of fruits and vegetables, and paired with lean proteins, whole grains and low-fat dairy, we’re golden. That’s how easy it is.”

Whatever it takes.  The new plate graphic is a cool idea, and it’s probably more relevant when it comes to eating, but does it really address the larger problem?   Yes, sensible food choices are critical – but what about those enormous food portions and the size of the plate?  And, what about those times when there is no plate?  Does that count? 

America’s fascination with an easy taco, a quick burger, or any other overly processed foods is a clear indicator that we are governed by our impulses.  We are looking for a fast fix to fill that empty void.  Sadly, that need is not long satisfied by plowing through a half-pounder, a side of fries, and washing it down with a Big Gulp.

Admittedly, my eating habits have gotten out of hand too, so I’m taking this summer to re-visit them and get a grip.  For the past couple of years or so, my excuse has been that I’m adjusting to a cooler climate and I’ve naturally gravitated to eating heavier meals.  Also, with longer days away from home, I’ve rationalized quick energy snacks and the need for more “brain food.”  Wow, how handy for the trail mix, the peanut butter, and perhaps some more of that chocolate for good measure. 

Which brings me back to the My Pyramid Tracker, likely now obsolete and incorporated in the new MyPlate site.  I’ve used this site for monitoring daily intake and usage. It has improved over the past year and  seems to have many of the earlier kinks worked out for tracking meals, searching for nutritional values, sorting out food requirements and much more.   Another site worth checking out for their exercise component is My Fitness Pal, I use their Recipe section to enter personal recipes for nutritional analysis breakdown.   

With my new eating regimen, I’ve noticed that the focus on whole grains, beans and pulses really does work.  I find I am not hungry as often and my energy stays at a higher more consistent level.  Still, this is all pretty new to me, so I’m spending more time in the advance prep stage.  But once prepared, I don’t mind having a repeat of the same dish, and my freezer is filling up nicely with meals for later.  Another plus beyond feeling better, is that a visit to the bulk food section of my market is far less expensive than a walk down the meat aisle. 

Here’s a lentil dish I especially enjoyed in the early stages of my Meat Reduction Program.  At the time, the addition of a limited amount of grilled turkey Polish sausage seemed like a big enough sacrifice.  As time has gone on, and I’ve increased the pulses, whole grains and beans, I’ve noticed my need for meat has greatly diminished. But, then again, there's nothing like a great burger...

Lentils, Kale and Sausage 

Inspired by EatingWell magazine

Ingredients:

·         1 tbsp. olive oil, divided

·         12 oz. precooked turkey sausage, such as kielbasa

·         1 large onion

·         2-3 cloves garlic

·         ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes

·         ½ tsp. thyme

·         1 bay leaf

·         2 tbsp. celery leaves (from celery below)

·         1 carrot, peeled, chopped

·         1 cup green lentils, rinsed

·         2 stalks celery

·         1 poblano pepper, seeded and chopped

·         5 cups chicken stock, or part water/bouillon

·         12 cups kale, cleaned, stripped from stalk and chopped

·         ½ tsp. salt and pepper each

Directions: 

1.       Heat a deep pot over medium heat, coat with about 2 tsp. olive oil and brown the sausage on all side.  Remove the sausage and let cool.

2.       Add the remaining oil and onion to the pot to soften, then add the garlic and toss until aromatic.  Add the red pepper and spices, then the celery leaves, carrot, and pepper.  Deglaze the pot with stock, and bring all to a simmer.

3.       Add the lentils and simmer partially covered for 30-40 minutes, or until nearly tender.   Stir in the kale and simmer 10-15 minutes longer.  Taste for seasoning and top with sliced sausage.  Serves 6. 

Delicious topped with Baby Tomatoes marinated in Sherry Vinegar. 

Kung Paowerful Chicken

Here’s a bright and flavorful chicken entrée that is a fast and nourishing mid-week dinner and the perfect counterpart to the Blistered Green Beans recently mentioned here.

Reminiscent of popular spicy Kung Pao Chicken, this is a remarkably simple version, thanks to the special splash of oyster sauce which adds an extra dimension. 

Kung Pao typically includes peanuts, but on this occasion I opted for a bowl of hot and spicy sesame snacks served on the side for nibbling and/or sprinkling. My personal standby is a bulk version which  includes peanuts, rice and wasabi snacks, almonds and other treats. 

 

As with with stir fries and other such fast meals, it’s a good idea to have everything gathered up, sliced, diced, and pre-mixed, so that the final flash in the pan is exactly that.   

But wait.  Besides being quick and utterly delicious, there’s more good news:  should there be any leftovers, this powerful dish is great reheated the next day. 

Spicy Curried Chicken

Inspired by Cooking Light 9/08

The Sauce

1/2 cup chicken stock

2 tbsp Oyster sauce

1-2 tsp rice vinegar or distilled vinegar

2 tsp cornstarch

 3/4 lb chicken breast or other meat, thin 3" strips

2 tbsp oil, divided

1 onion, sliced in strips

1 red pepper, in strips

1 poblano or other pepper, in strips

1 tbsp fresh ginger or more grated

1 tbsp garlic, minced

2 tsp Madras curry powder

4 dried hot red chilies

salt to taste

Garnish:  sesame snacks mix or peanuts, cilantro

3 cups cooked rice of choice

Prepare sauce and set it aside.

Heat deep skillet or wok over high heat, add oil to coat sides and bottom.  Add the chicken in 2 portions, cooking about 2 minutes or until firm and beginning to color.  Sprinkle lightly with salt and set aside.

Add additional oil, then the onion and toss to soften; add the pepper and toss.  Add ginger and garlic and toss additional minute. 

 Add curry and chilies and toss 30 seconds. Add the sauce, then the chicken and stir fry 1 minute.

Serve on rice and sprinkle with nuts and cilantro i desired.  Serves 4 ~~

Off the Deep End with Spaetzle

This past weekend I had a little extra time which morphed into another excellent culinary episode.  It all began with a few fresh chicken thighs. To make the most of these tasty thighs, I decided a hearty chicken vegetable soup with a Caribbean edge would be just right. If that wasn’t enough, I also pictured a noodle or a dumpling… something interesting afloat in the soup.

When it comes to stock, I have previously mentioned that I like making my stock from baked, grilled, or roasted bones. I often freeze the bones from chicken pieces that I have eaten and when I have a nice collection I make a batch of stock. This may sound marginally peculiar, but I prefer to consider it a form of re-cycling.

I am not suggesting that you follow all of the steps presented here, but I do recommend the final outcome. We begin the soup with sautéed mushrooms and garlic, then flour is added to create a light roux base. The chicken stock is stirred in to create a slightly thickened soup, then onion and root vegetables are added and simmered until al dente. Any greens such as collards or chard would be lovely, too. The meat from the thighs is added to the soup and pointed up with a bit of lemon or lime zest and juice. This perky curry-spiced soup can be served now or reheated later.

For me, The X factor - the noodle or dumpling dilemma – took a bit longer to resolve; mystifyingly, it arrived later that night in the form of Spaetzle, Austrian or German irregularly shaped noodles.  They are formed by dough pressed through the holes of a colander into boiling water. I recall enjoying these delights years ago, but not enough to rush home and make my own.

This weekend, however, I was so impressed with my first attempt at Spaetzle making that I quickly whipped up a second batch; they are that easy – and addictive! No special ingredients or tools are required, and unlike pasta, the little dumpling-like noodles do not stick together when drained and they reheat beautifully. I tossed mine with a tiny bit of butter, salt, pepper, and a dash of scallions for good luck. I’ll be making these again!


Curried Chicken Vegetable Soup with Spaetzle

Chicken Stock:
6 chicken thighs, roasted and skinned, reserve bones
1 onion, the trimmings: tops, bottom and outer peel
2 stalks celery, leaves and stems
1 bay leaf
Soup:
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 cup baby portobellos, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon thyme
6 cups reserved chicken stock, approx.
1 can chicken stock, or water as needed
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 turnips, peeled and chopped
1 large jalapeno pepper, peeled, seeded, minced
1 small red pepper, seeded and chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 lemon or lime

Roast the thighs at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes - until firm when pressed and skin begins to brown. Allow to cool, discard the skin, reserve the bones and cut the chicken into pieces and set aside.

For the stock: combine the bones, vegetable trimmings and bay leaf, cover with 6-8 cups water, bring to a boil and simmer for 45-60 minutes. Allow stock to cool, strain and reserve.

For the soup:  in soup pot over medium heat, sauté mushrooms in oil with garlic until mushrooms release moisture, stir in flour, turmeric, curry, allspice and thyme and allow it to cook until aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add the reserved onion in large chop and the celery chopped well. Continue to toss until onion softens slightly, approximately 5 minutes.

Slowly stir in the reserved chicken stock and allow it to thicken slightly. Add the remaining vegetables through red pepper and simmer for about 20 minutes; use the canned chicken stock as needed.

Stir in the reserved chicken and simmer additional 15-20 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, and juice from 1/2 lemon (or lime). Adjust salt and pepper as needed. Serve with ginger Spaetzle rimming the bowl and sprinkle with fresh green onion. Serves 4~~

Ginger Spaetzle
Inspired by Tyler Florence, Food Network

1 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger or 1 tsp. fresh
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
2 eggs
1/4 cup milk
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons chives or parsley, minced

In a medium bowl combine dry ingredients. In mixing cup, measure milk and whisk in 2 eggs.

Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture and pour in the liquid. Stir flour from edges into center liquid until well combined, smooth and thick. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

Bring pot of salted water to a boil and reduce to simmer. In batches, press portions of the dough through a large holed colander or a slotted spoon into the simmering water. Cook 3-4 minutes or until the Spaetzle float to surface - stirring gently to prevent sticking. With slotted spoon, remove Spaetzle to a colander; rinse quickly with cool water and drain. Repeat until all dough is used.

Toss Spaetzle with melted butter, chives or parsley, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serves 4~~

Seasonally In Sync

I received a link to Fete Accompli, Austin, Texas caterers currently garnering raves for their handmade specialty appetizers based on local and organic products. It’s a fine example of the commitment and flexibility necessary to consistently provide high caliber cuisine. Produce doesn’t always materialize as planned due to unanticipated variables such as weather, economic influences, supply/demand, and distribution. Unforeseen circumstances happen, and customers should understand in advance that substitutions are inevitable, but in all likelihood, they will not be dissapointed and the outcome will be just as good - perhaps even better than anticipated.

This style of commercial cooking is all about being in sync with the season and with local farmers and purveyors, and in creatively designing specialties that will showcase the very best available at their peak.

The home cook can do the same; here it’s about living in harmony with nature, the season, and our farmers – who can be as convenient as our local Farmers Market. We can also participate on our own level, by growing a pot of tomatoes on our deck, or in a hanging basket. We can claim a square of soil and transform it into a patch of lettuce or any other specialty that works. There’s a real sense of wonder and fullfillment experienced when we pluck and savor our first ripe tomato, pepper, or strawberry that we have planted, nurtured and watered.

These days, I am completely enamored by the idea of self-sufficiency: to bake my own bread, to make my own chutney, to brine and smoke my own chicken, and perhaps, to grow my own lettuce. That was the scenario that played out this past weekend when I had the magical good fortune of discovering all of these riches in my fridge at the same time. The results: a simple-yet-elegant smoked chicken sandwich on cornmeal loaf bread, with apple-cranberry chutney and butter crunch lettuce. Superlatively uncomparable!

Simple Smoked Chicken
4 pound chicken
Brine:
1/4 cup sea salt
2 teaspoons pepper
2 cloves garlic, slivers
1 tablespoon olive oil

Tools and props: apple or other wood chips, vertical chicken roaster, grill with smoker hood

Rinse the chicken and allow it to drain. In a 2 cup measurer, place salt, pepper and 1/2 cup very hot water, allow salt to dissolve. Add the garlic and cool the hot water with approximately 1 cup cold water. Pour the water into a large zip lock bag, add the chicken, and pour in enough additional water to cover the chicken. Swish around and seal the chicken well, removing as much air as possible. Place the bagged chicken into a deep bowl large enough to hold the chicken snug for storage purposes. Chill for 4 hours or longer, turning once or twice if not fully covered.

Prepare grill with smoker hood. Cover the wood chips with water, and soak in a small bowl for at least 20 minutes.

Drain and pat dry the chicken, rub it with olive oil and place on a vertical chicken roaster. Fill the bottom pan of the chicken roaster with water, beer, wine or any preferred liquid.

When the grill is very hot, sprinkle the white coals with 2/3 of the woods chips, replace grill rack and place the vertical roaster and chicken carefully onto the hot grill. Cover and roast the chicken for about 1/2 hour. Carefully remove lid, add additional coals if necessary, add remaining wood chips, add water to roaster pan if necessary, replace smoker hood, and roast for at least 30 - 45 minutes longer. The chicken should be deep mahogany and internal temperature should register 160-170 degrees.

Remove chicken from grill and let stand 5-10 minutes before removing it from vertical roaster. Allow to cool 10 - 15 minutes longer before carving.

Note: for bread, chutney or further recipe references, please refer to index.

Bolognese: Not your Mother’s Spaghetti Sauce

It was a cold snowy afternoon and my warm kitchen beckoned, urging me to bring forth the big pot and commence filling it with some sort of sultry, scintillating, simmering concoction – a steamy dinner in the making. There’s nothing more cozy and reassuring on a chilly winter day than a gurgling pot of goodness broadcasting its tantalizing aromas, each expectant stir more promising than the last. Ah, yes, this is pasta weather at its finest and a hearty Bolognese Sauce would surely do the trick.

The old nagging debate returns as I contemplate my course of action, “Do I add the milk or not?” Indeed, why should I? Does it really matter? According to Marcella Hazan, a leading culinary authority on the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, the answer is “Yes, definitely!” In fact, Marcella adds the milk or cream after browning the meat and then allows it to reduce down before finally stirring in the tomatoes and wine. She claims this prior dairy addition counteracts any offensive acid from these two spunky partners and ultimately results in a more refined and balanced sauce.

With knife poised I begin working from 3 different recipes: my own long-time favorite, a recent clipping from Cooking Light magazine, and Marcella’s version. My recipe is one I’ve used many times, gleaned from a yacht owner utterly passionate about his Bolognese Sauce. My aim is to update mine and at the same time introduce a bit more authenticity.

A cautionary note: this meat sauce is not your mother’s Spaghetti Sauce. If yours was anything like my mother’s, throw those ideas out the window right now. Well, o.k., avoid any snowy blast and metaphorically toss them.

Ràgu, as it is affectionately referred to in the Emilia-Romagna, is frequently made with pork and/or beef. I prefer this mostly pork combination but I’ve also used portions of turkey or veal out of necessity. The addition of carrot is a signature ingredient; the sweetness is yet another nod to reducing that dreaded acid build-up.

You’ll notice the herbs and spices move toward the sweet/savory realm, reminiscent of early European cuisine where these were often used as powerful preservatives. Wouldn’t you know, Marcella keeps it simple with just a few grates of fresh nutmeg. With a judicious hand I opt for my favs: sage, a smattering of thyme and oregano, a dash of allspice and nutmeg.

Our sauce in Italy would slow cook 3 hours or longer thus ensuring an impeccably well balanced Ràgu. Back on the ranch, after an hour or so of burbling and voracious stirring, my Bolognese is meaty, intensely robust and quite thick. The color is exquisite pale sienna, the aroma utterly addictive, the flavor well balanced, lingering, unique and unforgettable. As far as I am concerned, it is well done.

The pasta of choice according to Marcella is tagliatelle or perhaps a tortellini, both worthy classics. Wide flat ribbons are ideal for supporting a thick sauce such as ours, and on this snowy winter day, fettuccine is conveniently my perfect candidate.

Bolognese Sauce A mild and meaty Ràgu from Bologna, Italy

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, diced
1 carrot, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
24 ounces ground pork and ground beef, total, or any combo with veal or turkey
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, allspice
1/2 teaspoon each: sage, thyme, oregano
14 ounces canned tomatoes, in liquid, chopped
8 ounces tomato sauce
1/2 cup white wine

16 ounces tagliatelle, fettuccine, or tortellini
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

In sauce pot heat oil add onion and sauté til tender, 3-4 minutes. Add carrot, celery, garlic and red pepper and cook 2 minutes, til softened.

Add the meat, salt and pepper and brown well, drain of excess fat. Lower heat, simmer the milk, nutmeg and allspice til almost evaporated. Add the herb sand toss to combine and become aromatic. Add the tomatoes, tomato sauce and wine. Bring to a boil, reduce to very low simmer, partially cover and cook for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until very thick. Stir as needed. Adjust flavors.

Meanwhile cook pasta in salted water, drain. Place pasta in shallow bowls, spoon about 3/4 cup over each serving. Pass Parmesan cheese. Serves 6~~