Liver for Lovers: Bolognese Sauce

Warning!  This blog may not be suitable for all readers.  Please proceed only if you appreciate chicken livers.

Recently back from my ten-week stint in Mexico, I acknowledge that there are other foods in life beyond chilies, tortillas, cheese, and all the fabulous dishes celebrated there.

   

In fact, on my return I had an unexpected craving for chicken livers.  It’s not a complete surprise, and because I get a hankering for them about once a month, I tend to stock-pile a container of them in my freezer to head off this sudden biological urge. 

Yesterday, as I mulled over a nice weekend meal, what glee did I express, when behold!  To the rear of my freezer, I spot a lurking carton of chicken livers amongst my depleted pickings.  Hallelujah sister!  Joy upon joy, I had all the fundamentals for Chicken Livers in Bolognese including three fresh Roma tomatoes and from out in the garden plenty of sage and rosemary.

I make my Bolognese the traditional way:  a meat sauce simmered with tomatoes and milk.   I elected to go with ground pork instead of veal, turkey, or beef because it too, was in my freezer.  I can’t say enough about the addition of the milk to the sauce.  Fear not:  the tomatoes will not curdle the milk; along with a bit of Parmesan cheese, it tends to tenderize the meat and harmonize the sauce.  The combination of herbs and spices, plus the addition of the chicken livers, create a marriage made in heaven. Trust me on this one.

Now, you are doubly forewarned ― because this comes from an unabashed liver lover.

Chicken Livers in Bolognese Sauce

  Ingredients

  3        tbsp. olive oil -- divided

  1         lb. chicken livers

 1/3     cup flour

             salt and pepper    

  1         onion, peeled and chopped

  1         poblano or other green pepper, seeded and chopped

  1         carrot, peeled and chopped

  2         cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

  3/4    lb. ground pork, veal, turkey, or beef

  1         tsp. fresh rosemary, chopped

  1         tsp. fresh sage, chopped

  2        tbsp. red wine

  3        Roma tomatoes, chopped

  2 – 3  tbsp. tomato paste

  ½       tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

  ¼       tsp. cayenne

  ½       tsp. salt and freshly ground pepper

  ½       cup low fat or other milk

  2         tbsp.  Parmesan cheese, crumbled

  12       oz. chicken stock,  or beef

             few dashes Worcestershire sauce

             salt and pepper

  1         tsp. aged balsamic vinegar (optional)

Preparation

Clean the liver, cut into manageable pieces and pat dry; sprinkle lightly with flour, salt, and  pepper.  In a large pot heat 2 tbsp. oil and add livers.  Brown well on all sides and remove.

To the pot, heat remaining oil, add vegetables to soften and remove to separate bowl.  Add pork to the pan, break up and brown lightly adding herbs and spices.  Deglaze with red wine and loosen bits from pan; add tomatoes, tomato paste, reserved vegetables and the stock.  Add the milk, Parmesan, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper and stir to combine all. Partially cover pan and simmer about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally until sauce thickens slightly.  It will thicken as it sets.   

Add livers to pan, simmer to finish cooking them and to blend flavors, about 10 minutes; adjust seasoning.  If too tart, add a pinch of sugar or a splash of aged balsamic.  Best if allowed to set overnight to mellow flavors.  Serve over pasta, polenta, or on the side with risotto.  Yield:  4 servings.

  

Ricotta Made Easy. Really?

It could be said that there isn’t much new when it comes to Pasta Marinara―especially with grilled vegetables.  Possibly even more uninteresting might be a lasagna lacking the gooey layers of cheese.

Well, that’s pretty much where we begin here:  a layered lasagna-like version where grilled vegetables are front and center and cheese layers are nearly non-existent. What makes this pasta newsworthy and exceptionally tasty is the homemade lemon ricotta cheese added after baking, instead of buried way inside.  Here, superb ricotta is a creamy condiment that crowns the pasta and elevates it to spectacular heights. 

Ricotta has always meant a special trip to the grocery store before making that special cheesecake, white pizza, or lasagna.  Then, in the cheese aisle I debate which ricotta to purchase, and why?   I usually recall that it isn’t the fat free variety ― they all resemble tasteless rubber.  So, it’s probably a low fat ricotta, but which one?  Some of those are pretty bad, too.   Good grief, it’s such a crap shoot. 

It hadn’t occurred to me that it might actually be easy to whip up a homemade batch of ricotta.  Having the convenience of fresh ricotta at my finger tips would certainly take all of the guess and gamble out of the equation.  Thanks to Cooking Light magazine, their simple ricotta offers the perfect solution, and even better, their secret ingredient is none other than low fat yogurt, an item I usually have on hand. 

Of course, there are a couple of caveats:  the yield/ratio to yogurt is about 1:1; plus, a fair amount of low fat milk is required.  I have found that making about a one cup quantity is a realistic return.

A few notes on procedures.  The process is made easy by using the microwave to heat the yogurt/milk mixture.   To strain the curd and whey, lining a sieve with coffee filters will make the subsequent cheese collection and clean up straight forward.  Also, the liquid left from the straining process has good nutritional value, and is a great addition to baked breads and such. 

Flavoring the ricotta also adds a whole new dimension, too, and in this particular dish lemon zest offers the perfect finishing touch.   So here you are, a truly exceptional layered penne with marinara and grilled vegetables regally crowned with homemade Lemon Ricotta.  Naturally, we’ll start with the ricotta!

Lemon Ricotta, Quick

Courtesy Cooking Light magazine, Aug 2011

Ingredients:

·         2 cups 2% milk

·         ½ cup plain Greek yogurt, or other natural yogurt such as Nancy’s

·         2 tsp cider vinegar

·         1 ½ tsp grated lemon rind

·         1/4 tsp  coarse salt, divided

Directions: 

In a microwave safe 1-qt measurer combine milk, yogurt and vinegar; microwave on high for 4 minutes.  

Stir mixture to form small curds.  Strain into cheese cloth or a coffee filter lined sieve, and let stand for 5 minutes.  Discard liquid.

Scrape mixture into small bowl and stir in rind and ¼ tsp. salt.   Yield:  approx ½ cup, enough for 4 servings.  

Penne with Marinara, Grilled Vegetables and Fresh Lemon Ricotta

 Ingredients:

·         6 to 8 cups Marinara Sauce, approximate

·         1 eggplant, sliced.  Sprinkle with salt and allow to drain in colander for 20 minutes; pat dry

·         2 zucchini

·         2 yellow squash

·         3 cups whole wheat penne pasta, cooked in salted boiling water until al dente

·         ½ cup Parmesan cheese, grated

·         cooking spray for the grill

·         salt and pepper
 Lemon Ricottta and fresh mint

Directions:

Prepare the marinara sauce, or have 6-8 cups on hand.

To grill vegetables:   

Prepare the grill to medium high or until coals are red hot.

Slice the eggplant, zucchini, squash and red onion into long ½” thick slices. 

Spray the eggplant slices on one side and lay sprayed side down onto clean grill over hot white coals.  When well marked, spray top side, and turn.  Remove when browned on both sides but not cooked through.

Spray, salt and pepper the zucchini, squash and red onions on one side; grill, spray, salt and pepper top sides and turn until all are seared but not cooked thoroughly.  Remove and cool.  Cut the vegetable into bite sized chunks

To assemble:  Spray or oil a Le creuset or other oven proof 2 ½ qt dish or pot, and spread about 1 cup sauce in the bottom.  Add half of the pasta, sprinkle with 1/3 of the cheese, top with half of the vegetables, and spread half of the remaining sauce over it.  Repeat with second layer of pasta, Parmesan, vegetables, and top with the remainder of the sauce and sprinkle with rest of the cheese.  This can all be done ahead at this point and refrigerated.

To bake:  Heat the oven to 325 degrees.  Place covered dish in center of oven and bake 60 to 90 minutes or until browned and bubbly. 

To serve:  place 2 cups hot pasta into 4 shallow bowls.  Sprinkle each serving with a few grinds of coarse salt and pepper; top each with 1-2 tbsp room temperature Lemon Ricotta Cheese and 1 Tbsp mint.  Serves:  6-8

Finocchio Fantastico

Fennel is in season again which led me to recently playing with it in the kitchen. I have fond memories of using fennel prodigiously while cooking for the Petrarca family. They were extremely proud of their heritage and the traditional Italian cuisine was an important part of their meals. On the weekends, they enjoyed entertaining extended family and friends - and the meal could go on for hours.

If the weather was conducive, we would often have brunch or dinner at one large table spread outside on the terrace in the cooling shade of the enormous elm trees. As the day wore on, sometimes Tom Petrarca would get into the mood, pull out his accordion, and play a bit. It wouldn’t take long before he’d break into song, and soon everyone would be singing along.

Fennel was a major part of these family meals. The wine would flow, and dessert could wind on while espresso was served along with dessert wines and liqueurs. We’d offer a selection of specialty desserts, and trays of cookies and sweets would be passed. Then, amidst plenty of oohs and ahs, their beloved fennel would be set in the center of the table with a sampling of specialty cheeses – plus assorted nuts, with picks and crackers for casual shelling.

It’s no wonder fennel makes me smile.  Besides the obvious snacking benefits, its bright licorice flavor is especially wonderful raw in salads and salsas. However, on this day I wanted to create a tomato sauce richly laced with vegetables and complemented with some spicy meatballs - and fennel was the object of my intentions.

I wasn’t disappointed either. The sweetness of the fennel and carrot was the perfect balance to the acid of the tomatoes.  The licorice flavor was slightly muted, even though I elected to not overcook the sauce. Fortunately, I added fennel seed to the meatball mixture, which provided the perfect balance in this duet. I also used my convection oven to finish the meatballs, and wondered why I hadn’t thought of this sooner. They browned evenly and cooked in the amount of time that it took to prepare the sauce and simmer it briefly. At this point, I set it all aside and allowed it to cool.

When I was ready to start dinner, I heated the sauce, added the meatballs and simmered the sauce for about 20 minutes; just enough to infuse the sauce and cook the meatballs thoroughly. The finished sauce had a balanced spiciness and a lovely texture - and the carrots and fennel retained their slight al dente quality. Served with linguine and a shave of Parmesan: fantastico!

Tomato and Fennel Sauce with Meatballs and Pasta

24 oz. Meatballs (see below), browned well
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small bulb fennel, trimmed and chopped
1 whole carrot, peeled, chopped
2 teaspoons mixed dried herbs, savory, oregano, sage
2 - 14 oz cans tomatoes chopped, in puree
1 - 8 oz can tomato sauce
2 tablespoons fresh oregano
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, shaved
1 pound linguine, cooked al dente and drained well

Meatballs:
24 ounces lean ground beef
1/2 onion minced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 egg, beaten
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 slices day-old bread, soaked in water, squeezed dry
1/3 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
salt and pepper
olive oil

Preheat oven to 400 degrees: use convection if available. Line baking sheet with foil, drizzle with olive oil.

Combine meatball ingredients with hands and form into approx. 1" balls and place on baking sheet, roll them in olive oil and bake in oven for about 10 minutes. When they begin to brown turn the meatballs and bake for additional 10 minutes or until browned on all sides. Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Meanwhile in large pot, heat the oil and saute the onion and garlic until aromatic. Trim the fennel root and leaves, remove the tough outer portion, and chop like celery. Add the fennel and carrot and cook for 4-5 minutes stirring occasionally, until vegetable begin to soften, adding the herbs as they cook. Add the tomatoes and sauce, stir well, simmer 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat.

When ready to serve, reheat the tomato sauce and add the meatballs; simmer for 15-20 minutes. Stir in fresh herbs and simmer briefly. Serve with pasta and fresh Parmesan cheese. Serves 4 ~~

Gingersnaps meet Pork

Easter week I decided I would create a nice meal incorporating pork and cabbage. That certainly left a universe of options, so I’m not quite sure how I ended up fiddling with Sauerbraten.   I confess, I don’t believe I  had ever tasted it before either. 

With than in mind, I commence from a place of curiosity - rather than familiarity.  I suspect the reason I had never made Sauerbraten is because of the gingersnap issue. I’ve always liked the idea of adding this yummy cookie as a final fillip to the dish, but of course that would require having some on hand. Alas, this just happened to be the serendipitous situation, when I discovered a few stragglers in the freezer - left from the holidays.

Granted, Sauerbraten is traditionally made from a tough cut of beef or game allowed to sit in a flavorful marinade for days before cooking to tenderize and tame it; in the olden times it would have likely acted as a preserving agent, as well. I began with a tender and lean top boneless pork loin roast and decided to take a little creative license by searing it first, then simmering it in its marinade until tender… with a final sojourn in the refrigerator. I’m far happier accomplishing as much work as possible up front – and not waiting until crunch time.

The roast marinates in the fridge a day or so with an occasional turn to evenly absorb flavors. It is returned to the stove for a simple re-heat and kept warm while the sauce is prepared with the lovely waiting gingersnaps. It sounds crazy, but it works deliciously.

By this time, the sauce has developed some serious complexity compounded by the beautiful balance of spicy sweetness from those devilish gingersnaps against the earthy tartness of the marinade.  Dribble this noble sauce over the amazing sliced meat; offer Braised Cabbage with Juniper Berries, some Buttered Noodles with Sautéed Mushrooms, and you’ll understand why this is considered one of the world’s most famous dishes.

Sauerbraten
(loosely adapted from Bobby Flay, Food Network)

2 tablespoons canola oil
3 pounds top boneless pork loin roast, (or 3-4 lb. boned and rolled beef rump roast)
salt and pepper

Marinade
1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and sliced thin
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 1/2 cups water
6 whole cloves, and same # juniper berries, opt.
8 juniper berries (optional)
8 black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds, or whole grained mustard
1/2 tsp. thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons flour
6 - 2" gingersnaps, finely crushed with rolling pin
2 tablespoons honey, or to taste

Braised Cabbage
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large yellow onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced
2 pounds red or green cabbage, cored and shredded
1/2 cup reserved cooking liquid from sauerbraten
1/2 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1 Tablespoons juniper berries
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Noodles with Mushrooms
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 ounces portabella mushrooms, sliced
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons chives or green onions
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound egg noodles, cooked al dente

Heat the 2 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven. Season the roast with salt and pepper and sear 2-3 minutes on each side. Remove the roast.

To the pot, add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic and toss briefly. Add the vinegars, water, and seasonings through thyme, salt and pepper. Return the meat and allow to simmer 2-3 hours, turning every hour hour, until it is tender but not falling apart. Place the meat in a storage container. Allow the marinade to cool, strain it and pour over the roast. Refrigerate 1-3 days, turn occasionally to allow marinade to infuse entire cut.

To finish, slowly reheat roast in marinade, when hot carefully remove meat to a platter and keep warm.

To make the sauce: In a saucepan, heat butter and add flour to make a roux. Set aside approximately 1/2 cup marinade for the braised cabbage. Add the remaining liquid to the pan to create a thick gravy-like sauce. Add the crumbled gingersnaps, adjust with honey to taste, salt and pepper as needed.

Carve the roast, serve topped with some of the sauce, along with Braised Cabbage and Noodles with Mushrooms. Serves 6-8.

Braised Cabbage:  Heat butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until soft. Add the cabbage, cooking liquid, stock, the juniper berries, and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Cover and cook until the cabbage is wilted, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Noodles with Mushrooms:  Saute the mushrooms in butter and garlic, salt and pepper and cook to release juices, add the green onions. Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain well, toss with the mushrooms, and adjust seasoning.

The Zen of Risotto

With all the local talk of Fungal Feasts and Truffle Festivals going on at the moment I felt compelled to create my own celebration in the form of a lovely wild mushroom risotto.

There was a time when I had absolutely no interest in risotto.

I had this strange idea that rice was dull and uninteresting – that it was just a bunch of unnecessary carbs. And then, I had to get past the angst of stirring rice for 20 minutes at a time - it seemed like a lot of work for very little reward. Besides, there was usually a lot of other activity going on – like the entrée - and the darned risotto tended to be just another unnecessary culinary distraction.

When I finally had my first bowl of exquisite risotto I was an instant convert. I remember it well. It was a mushroom risotto so full of aromas, flavors, and textures that I couldn’t believe all of that could be happening in one mouthful. It was complex, creamy, and earthy; yet the grains were separate and ‘toothsome’. It was ethereal, sensual, and utterly satisfying. I was completely bewitched and transported to the other side. I was a believer. I’d had a psychic shift over rice.

Now, risotto has been elevated to the main event and surely is not a second rate accompaniment to an entrée. It is the star, and it receives the full attention that an entrée of its stature rightly deserves. When I prepare risotto the stirring of the rice and the slow addition of liquid all fall into a gentle rhythm of relaxed enjoyment and confident anticipation. Yes, it’s a Zen thing. I become one with my rice.

There are a few key factors involved in making an excellent risotto. Seek out Arborio rice -  its flavor, unique texture, and resulting creaminess will make all the difference in the world. Use a flavorful stock, because this is the basis of your risotto. The hot liquid is added in small quantities; allow the liquid to cook down and absorb into the rice before adding more. You will know when it’s time to add another ladleful, because the rice will make a hissing sound. Continue this process until all the liquid is added and the rice is creamy. In all, it should take about 20 minutes.

Risotto is very forgiving and designed for adaptation. Consider other vegetables, even chicken in lieu of mushrooms; vary the herbs and flavorings; change the stock to enhance the other additions. If not already, become a believer. Bon appetit!

Wild Mushroom Risotto
Adapted from World Vegetarian Classics, Celia Brooks Brown

1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
1 cup boiling water
4 ½ cups well flavored stock, chicken, beef or vegetable
3 tablespoons butter
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 ½ cups risotto rice, Arborio or carnaroli
9 ounces wild mushrooms, cleaned, coarse chop
3 cloves garlic, well chopped
1 teaspoon thyme
1/2 cup dry vermouth or white wine
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, fresh grated
for garni: fresh ground black pepper, additional Parmesan

Place the dried porcini in small bowl and cover with boiling water; allow to soak for about 20 mins. Strain and reserve liquid. Chop porcini coarsely.
Melt the butter in large heavy pan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté til translucent, then add rice. Sauté briskly til rice makes a crackling noise and looks slightly translucent. Add the porcini and fresh mushrooms and garlic and sauté briefly until fragrant and they begin to soften. Add vermouth and porcini water all at once and stir. When absorbed and making a hissing sound, add one ladleful of hot stock. Keep stirring.

When stock is absorbed, add another ladle of stock. Continue process until rice looks creamy, 18-20 minutes. Taste for doneness, it should be al dente. Stir in parmesan cheese. Cover and set stand 3-5 minutes. Serve in warm bowls or plates with additional cheese and plenty of pepper. Serves 4 - 6 ~~
Note: Instead of parmesan cheese on top, try a dollop Greek yogurt or mascarpone cheese instead.

Off the Deep End with Spaetzle

This past weekend I had a little extra time which morphed into another excellent culinary episode.  It all began with a few fresh chicken thighs. To make the most of these tasty thighs, I decided a hearty chicken vegetable soup with a Caribbean edge would be just right. If that wasn’t enough, I also pictured a noodle or a dumpling… something interesting afloat in the soup.

When it comes to stock, I have previously mentioned that I like making my stock from baked, grilled, or roasted bones. I often freeze the bones from chicken pieces that I have eaten and when I have a nice collection I make a batch of stock. This may sound marginally peculiar, but I prefer to consider it a form of re-cycling.

I am not suggesting that you follow all of the steps presented here, but I do recommend the final outcome. We begin the soup with sautéed mushrooms and garlic, then flour is added to create a light roux base. The chicken stock is stirred in to create a slightly thickened soup, then onion and root vegetables are added and simmered until al dente. Any greens such as collards or chard would be lovely, too. The meat from the thighs is added to the soup and pointed up with a bit of lemon or lime zest and juice. This perky curry-spiced soup can be served now or reheated later.

For me, The X factor - the noodle or dumpling dilemma – took a bit longer to resolve; mystifyingly, it arrived later that night in the form of Spaetzle, Austrian or German irregularly shaped noodles.  They are formed by dough pressed through the holes of a colander into boiling water. I recall enjoying these delights years ago, but not enough to rush home and make my own.

This weekend, however, I was so impressed with my first attempt at Spaetzle making that I quickly whipped up a second batch; they are that easy – and addictive! No special ingredients or tools are required, and unlike pasta, the little dumpling-like noodles do not stick together when drained and they reheat beautifully. I tossed mine with a tiny bit of butter, salt, pepper, and a dash of scallions for good luck. I’ll be making these again!


Curried Chicken Vegetable Soup with Spaetzle

Chicken Stock:
6 chicken thighs, roasted and skinned, reserve bones
1 onion, the trimmings: tops, bottom and outer peel
2 stalks celery, leaves and stems
1 bay leaf
Soup:
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 cup baby portobellos, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon thyme
6 cups reserved chicken stock, approx.
1 can chicken stock, or water as needed
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 turnips, peeled and chopped
1 large jalapeno pepper, peeled, seeded, minced
1 small red pepper, seeded and chopped
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 lemon or lime

Roast the thighs at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes - until firm when pressed and skin begins to brown. Allow to cool, discard the skin, reserve the bones and cut the chicken into pieces and set aside.

For the stock: combine the bones, vegetable trimmings and bay leaf, cover with 6-8 cups water, bring to a boil and simmer for 45-60 minutes. Allow stock to cool, strain and reserve.

For the soup:  in soup pot over medium heat, sauté mushrooms in oil with garlic until mushrooms release moisture, stir in flour, turmeric, curry, allspice and thyme and allow it to cook until aromatic, about 3 minutes. Add the reserved onion in large chop and the celery chopped well. Continue to toss until onion softens slightly, approximately 5 minutes.

Slowly stir in the reserved chicken stock and allow it to thicken slightly. Add the remaining vegetables through red pepper and simmer for about 20 minutes; use the canned chicken stock as needed.

Stir in the reserved chicken and simmer additional 15-20 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest, and juice from 1/2 lemon (or lime). Adjust salt and pepper as needed. Serve with ginger Spaetzle rimming the bowl and sprinkle with fresh green onion. Serves 4~~

Ginger Spaetzle
Inspired by Tyler Florence, Food Network

1 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger or 1 tsp. fresh
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
2 eggs
1/4 cup milk
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons chives or parsley, minced

In a medium bowl combine dry ingredients. In mixing cup, measure milk and whisk in 2 eggs.

Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture and pour in the liquid. Stir flour from edges into center liquid until well combined, smooth and thick. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

Bring pot of salted water to a boil and reduce to simmer. In batches, press portions of the dough through a large holed colander or a slotted spoon into the simmering water. Cook 3-4 minutes or until the Spaetzle float to surface - stirring gently to prevent sticking. With slotted spoon, remove Spaetzle to a colander; rinse quickly with cool water and drain. Repeat until all dough is used.

Toss Spaetzle with melted butter, chives or parsley, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serves 4~~

Morel Mania!

This past weekend was our local Mycological Society’s Morel Foray and Camp Out. As a new member, I was excited about the possibility of spending the day with folks knowledgeable in the how, what, where, and why’s of edible mushrooms.

We are advised to meet first thing in the morning to pick up our directions map and receive final instructions on the weekend plans. I arrive full of anticipation and learn, much to my surprise, that we are headed high into the Cascades, and to my old stomping grounds, the Metolius River region between Suttle Lake and Camp Sherman.

It’s a glorious day, clear and blue, with a slight warming trend anticipated. My friend, Harriet and her husband, John invite me to carpool with them since they are also day tripping. They are ahead of me on the learning curve and we chat incessantly about mushrooms for almost two hours. Harriet is familiar with many of the popular mushrooms, and even tosses out a few Latin appellations; she recently hit the big time with her own find of hedgehogs and chanterelles. I’m in very good company.

The club re-assembles at Jack Creek, armed with hats, sun screen, and a wide assortment of quirky gathering baskets, each indicative of their owner’s personality. Before we can set out in search of the elusive morel, our youngest member at 9 years, spots the first specimen sprouting beneath the parked family SUV. Our leaders proclaim this an indicator of good luck, and we all embark with a big “hurrah!” and a strong sense of empowerment.

Unfortunately, most of us return with empty baskets, or simply a few odd items to share. The sharing turns out to be the most entertaining part of the entire day. Our team leaders wax eloquently over whatever we drag back – always including the Latin designation and any worthwhile tidbits of mycological lore.

We are one of the lucky ones; John and I eye what appear to be white rocks in the path directly ahead of us. On further investigation and poking, Harriet appears and announces we have unearthed puffballs! We are fully engaged, heads posed downward, fretting over the white balls in the dirt, when another member joins us. He murmurs, “No, don’t bother,” and walks off. Leave it to Harriet, she insists that we bring our find back and share it with the group. Except for our team leader, Chris, who displays 6 or 8 medium morels, we are apparently the big winners. The puffballs are sliced open, examined for any off coloring, and the requisite firm flesh; they are proclaimed the real deal, and highly edible.

Onto our second and more promising site: a burn area, apparently a setting highly favored by discriminating morels. We pick our way up the side of a burnt lava flow. Our team leaders discover “butts”, a clear sign that commercial pickers have hit the area before us. They are known for slicing the morel head and leaving just the stump, or “butt” in the ground. Nevertheless, we separate and create a wide flank up the mountainside.

Soon there are shouts across the horizon as each of us discovers morel heads popping out of the earth. I cheer my cohorts on, but am empty handed, until we turn and head back down the hill. Perhaps it’s the light, but suddenly I am seeing morels everywhere! Well, that may be a slight exaggeration, but along with my earlier puffballs, I find just enough to make a lovely dinner for two.


Linguine with Morels and PuffballsThe popular Italian Aglio e Olio (Garlic and Oil Sauce) embellished with freshly picked mushrooms

6 ounces linguine or other pasta
1/3 cup olive oil, divided
1 clove garlic, slivers
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon oregano, dried
3/4 cup morels and puffballs, cleaned well and sliced
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated
Few grinds black pepper
3 tablespoons sliced green onions or parsley

Begin by heating a pot of salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook til al dente.

Meanwhile, heat 1 tbsp. olive oil in small saucepan; add the garlic slivers, the red pepper flakes, oregano and sauté until aromatic.

Add the mushrooms and sauté about 5 minutes, until soft and their moisture is released; add salt, Worcestershire sauce, the remaining olive oil, and heat well.

Drain the pasta, drizzle it with about 2 tbsp. of the pasta sauce and toss to coat; add the Parmesan cheese, black pepper, green onion or parsley, and toss well. Portion the pasta into 2 servings and divide the remaining sauce equally over the tops. Serves 2 ~~

Herbfarm Lasagna

I recently had an opportunity to spend some time reading Jerry Traunfeld’s latest cookbook, The Herbal Kitchen, and was transported back to Seattle’s Herbfarm where he is the chef.

My last visit was back around 1995 when I worked as a chef aboard a gorgeous 120’ motor sailer headed for Alaska. We were spending time in Port Townsend, Washington, having work done in the yard before sailing north. In my off time, I shopped and dined, and as time lapsed, I cast a wider net and ultimately happened upon the Herbfarm. I was beside myself; I wanted to become a basil plant and live there with all the other happy herbs - forever.

Its reputation was so far flung people made trips to Seattle just for a memorable meal there. Reservations were needed weeks in advance, even months ahead for popular dates. When it came to a dining experience the Herbfarm was a tour de force; it set the bar for Pacific Northwest sensibility by presenting their lush garden setting as a backdrop and masterfully weaving a balanced interplay between their dizzying assortment of herbs, first rate local grown products and excellent wines.

Sadly, there was a fire and it took many long years before the Herbfarm was rebuilt and re-opened in 2001. The original owners have since died, but the Herbfarm legend continues, thanks to Jerry and other key staffers.

The Herbal Kitchen is a must-have cookbook for anyone serious about cooking with herbs. In this cookbook, with his trademark artful simplicity, Traunfeld focuses on home cooking and offers plenty of fast and easy ideas. Here’s one that caught my attention, it’s a new approach to preparing meatless lasagna. Jerry prepares three simple sauces and stacks them up with no-boil noodles. Nothing could be easier or fresher.

This light lasagna reminds me of cheese raviolis with plenty of big flavors. It’s nearly indestructible; it can be prepared ahead and baked later; it can be baked and reheated; it can be baked, frozen and reheated… I think you get the idea. It slices like a dream - just remember to allow it set about 15 minutes before slicing. The waiting is rough, but you won’t regret it!

Herbfarm Lasagna
28 ounce canned crushed tomatoes, and
14 1/2 ounce canned crushed tomatoes
1 whole dried hot chiles
1/4 cup marjoram or oregano
Kosher salt
5 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup flour
3 cups milk
1 pound whole ricotta, excellent quality
2 cups basil, 4 oz.
1 cup parsley, 2 oz.
2 cloves garlic
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
12 noodles oven ready lasagna noodles, of 8 ounce box
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, shredded

In large saucepan or skillet boil the tomatoes over medium high for about 10 minutes, stirring occasional, or until sauces thickens. Stir in marjoram and salt. Set aside. This can be done ahead.

If grating cheese, do so in processor now.

In medium saucepan, melt butter, whisk in flour, cook the roux about 1 minute; and slowly stir in the cold milk to incorporate. Whisk for lumps, then allow to come to full boil and thicken. Season with 1 1/2 tsp salt.

In food processor, blend the ricotta and 1/3 (about 1 cup) of the white sauce until smooth. Remove to a bowl.

In processor w/o cleaning, combine the basil, parsley, garlic cloves and 1/2 tsp salt til finely chopped; add the 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese and process. Add remaining white sauce (about 2 cups), and process til well combined.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 9x13 pan with straight sides.

Directions to assemble:
1. Spread half of the tomato sauce in bottom of the sprayed pan. Arrange 3 noodles on top of tomato sauce without touching each other, or the sides of pan.
2. Dab half the basil sauce onto each of the noodles, carefully spread to completely cover each.
3. Layer each stack with another noodle and spoon the entire amount of ricotta on top, spreading to completely cover each noodle.
4. Top each of the 3 stacks with another noodle, then gently spoon on the remaining tomato sauce, completely covering each.
5. Finally top the stacks with the last 3 noodles and spread each completely with remaining pesto sauce.

Cover dish with foil, tenting it slightly to avoid touching lasagna, and bake 30 minutes. Remove foil, sprinkle top with the shredded mozzarella and bake 30-35 minute longer, or til evenly browned. Let rest 15 minutes or longer, it will be loose, but will set up.

Note: can be assembled ahead and kept refrigerated and then baked, allow 10 minutes extra under foil; or bake ahead and reheat in 350 oven. Serves 8. ~~

Bolognese: Not your Mother’s Spaghetti Sauce

It was a cold snowy afternoon and my warm kitchen beckoned, urging me to bring forth the big pot and commence filling it with some sort of sultry, scintillating, simmering concoction – a steamy dinner in the making. There’s nothing more cozy and reassuring on a chilly winter day than a gurgling pot of goodness broadcasting its tantalizing aromas, each expectant stir more promising than the last. Ah, yes, this is pasta weather at its finest and a hearty Bolognese Sauce would surely do the trick.

The old nagging debate returns as I contemplate my course of action, “Do I add the milk or not?” Indeed, why should I? Does it really matter? According to Marcella Hazan, a leading culinary authority on the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, the answer is “Yes, definitely!” In fact, Marcella adds the milk or cream after browning the meat and then allows it to reduce down before finally stirring in the tomatoes and wine. She claims this prior dairy addition counteracts any offensive acid from these two spunky partners and ultimately results in a more refined and balanced sauce.

With knife poised I begin working from 3 different recipes: my own long-time favorite, a recent clipping from Cooking Light magazine, and Marcella’s version. My recipe is one I’ve used many times, gleaned from a yacht owner utterly passionate about his Bolognese Sauce. My aim is to update mine and at the same time introduce a bit more authenticity.

A cautionary note: this meat sauce is not your mother’s Spaghetti Sauce. If yours was anything like my mother’s, throw those ideas out the window right now. Well, o.k., avoid any snowy blast and metaphorically toss them.

Ràgu, as it is affectionately referred to in the Emilia-Romagna, is frequently made with pork and/or beef. I prefer this mostly pork combination but I’ve also used portions of turkey or veal out of necessity. The addition of carrot is a signature ingredient; the sweetness is yet another nod to reducing that dreaded acid build-up.

You’ll notice the herbs and spices move toward the sweet/savory realm, reminiscent of early European cuisine where these were often used as powerful preservatives. Wouldn’t you know, Marcella keeps it simple with just a few grates of fresh nutmeg. With a judicious hand I opt for my favs: sage, a smattering of thyme and oregano, a dash of allspice and nutmeg.

Our sauce in Italy would slow cook 3 hours or longer thus ensuring an impeccably well balanced Ràgu. Back on the ranch, after an hour or so of burbling and voracious stirring, my Bolognese is meaty, intensely robust and quite thick. The color is exquisite pale sienna, the aroma utterly addictive, the flavor well balanced, lingering, unique and unforgettable. As far as I am concerned, it is well done.

The pasta of choice according to Marcella is tagliatelle or perhaps a tortellini, both worthy classics. Wide flat ribbons are ideal for supporting a thick sauce such as ours, and on this snowy winter day, fettuccine is conveniently my perfect candidate.

Bolognese Sauce A mild and meaty Ràgu from Bologna, Italy

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, diced
1 carrot, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
24 ounces ground pork and ground beef, total, or any combo with veal or turkey
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 cup milk
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, allspice
1/2 teaspoon each: sage, thyme, oregano
14 ounces canned tomatoes, in liquid, chopped
8 ounces tomato sauce
1/2 cup white wine

16 ounces tagliatelle, fettuccine, or tortellini
1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

In sauce pot heat oil add onion and sauté til tender, 3-4 minutes. Add carrot, celery, garlic and red pepper and cook 2 minutes, til softened.

Add the meat, salt and pepper and brown well, drain of excess fat. Lower heat, simmer the milk, nutmeg and allspice til almost evaporated. Add the herb sand toss to combine and become aromatic. Add the tomatoes, tomato sauce and wine. Bring to a boil, reduce to very low simmer, partially cover and cook for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until very thick. Stir as needed. Adjust flavors.

Meanwhile cook pasta in salted water, drain. Place pasta in shallow bowls, spoon about 3/4 cup over each serving. Pass Parmesan cheese. Serves 6~~

Hello, Gorgeous!

Yahoo! We finally made it to the highly anticipated Academy Awards Oscar Night and a much needed reprieve in the year thus far. We had gamely turned the corner on new years and shouldered our way through January enduring that utterly jolting re-alignment with life. It’s exhausting facing reality. I breathed a weary ‘adios’ to January and gleefully rejoiced February's arrival. Hallelujah! Oscar Night is in the wings and accompanying it: another fabulous eatfest!

Yes, indeed! Lest we forget the occasion, in overview the 2009 Awards were showcased at the classy 3,332 seat Kodak Theatre in the heart of Hollywood. It was a night of style and wit. As usual the Oscar competition ran neck-and-neck with the banter of haughty fashion moguls wagging viciously over who most deserved the evening's Best/Worst Dressed Categories. There were a few good moments, particularly Ben Stiller’s spoof of Joaquin Phoenix’s recent bizarre interview. Most unforgettable was the stellar collection of previous academy award winners lined up in tribute to this year’s Best Actor and Actress nominees and winners. It was a global year; we had plenty of international winners, as indicated by Best Film awarded to Mumbai’s Slumdog Millionaire, a clear runaway favorite.

Getting down to the real action, in honor of our sinking economy I scaled back and kept the fare pretty simple. The headliner, my favorite indulgence: Chicken Liver Pâté. Of course, there was crisp Lavosh and plenty of fresh veggies and olives for frantic nibbling as the suspense grew. Half way through I passed steaming cups of an incredible Rice and Cabbage Soup. Don’t let the name fool you, this stylish creamy risotto-like potage is the perfect foil to an assertive Pate. It’s filling, but just the ticket for a night of noshing.

All of the above can be prepared well ahead. I’m a big lavosh fan, my cracker of choice is topped with tons of seeds and flavors. It was an utter revelation when I discovered how simple these are to create – especially considering the hefty price they demand at the market! One trick I’ve discovered is to be certain the dough forms a very soft ball. Although a small amount of yeast is required, these are quick to make and only require a brief resting period before rolling out the dough. Bake them off, cool briefly, and break into chunks and store airtight.

I am addicted to chicken livers! At least once a month I crave them and I must have my fix. I can completely relate to the bloody scene in Rosemary’s Baby where Mia Farrow wildly ravages raw chicken livers while blood oozes down her face. My sentiments exactly! Granted, I prefer mine cooked a bit beyond raw - but there’s nothing worse than overcooked chicken livers.
I have prepared this pâté for years and continue to adapt it. Back in the day, butter was a hefty item here, plus a few glugs of cream. Over time I have continued to pare this down, now the addition of mushrooms increases the moisture content and enhances the flavors beautifully. Of course, not overcooking those lovely livers will allow moisture to remain in the pan reducing additional liquids and/or fat when pureeing. A few dashes of bitters work well as a nifty substitute for brandy. Allow the flavor to mellow and blend by preparing it at least a day ahead.

Chicken Liver Pâté3 tablespoons butter, divided
1/2 medium onion, chop
1/4 pound mushrooms, cremini or other, slice
2 cloves garlic, mince
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
3/4 pound chicken livers, clean, trim and drain in strainer
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/4 teaspoon tarragon
1/4 teaspoon allspice
pinch red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon bitters or a splash brandy
1 bay leaf or fresh herbs for garnish

In medium sauté pan over medium, heat 1 Tbsp butter; cook the onion until soft, about 5 minutes. Remove to holding plate. Add mushrooms and sauté til liquid is cooked off, remove from pan.

To pan add 1 tbsp butter, the mushrooms, garlic, 1/4 tsp. salt and pepper and sauté until liquid is released and mushrooms are soft. Remove to holding plate.

To pan add additional 1 Tbsp butter when bubbling add livers, the seasonings, the bitters or brandy, 1/2 tsp salt and red pepper flakes. Cook til livers are lightly cooked and barely pink; about 5 minutes. Allow to cool briefly.

Puree in blender with onions and mushrooms, thin as needed with beef or chicken stock, cream, milk or water. Adjust flavors, it should be highly seasoned. Chill covered in crock or oiled mold. Allow flavors to develop at least overnight or longer. Garnish with bay or fresh herbs.

Serve with crackers or crostini, olives, gherkins, crudités: radishes, celery, red peppers, cucumbers, endive.

Seeded Lavosh
Inspired by Lora Brody's Pizza, Focaccia, Flat and Filled Breads for your Bread Machine
Dough
1/4 teaspoon yeast
1 1/2 cups flour or more if needed
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter, melted
3/4 cup warm water, plus 2 tablespoons
Topping
2-3 tablespoons water
5 tablespoons assorted seed mixture: 1 Tbsp. each: caraway or fennel, poppy, sesame seeds; 1 Tbsp coarse salt, 1 Tbsp. Montreal Pepper Seasoning, or to taste

In bowl of mixer combine all ingredients and mix with dough hook until dough comes together in smooth soft dough. Transfer to floured surface and divide in half and let rest for 10 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees and lightly flour the backs of 2 baking sheets. Using plenty of flour, roll out one roll at a time slowly to length of cookie sheet. Brush each lightly with water and sprinkle with topping. Bake breads 10 to 15 minutes - browned in some areas and crispy in other with bubbled air pockets. Cool and break into manageable pieces. Makes 3 to 4 dz pieces.

Rice and Cabbage SoupRed, White and Greens, by Faith Willinger (The Italian Way with Vegetables)
1/2 medium cabbage
2 medium carrot, chopped
2 sprigs parsley
1 teaspoon savory, divided
2 cloves garlic, divided
14 ounces can chicken stock
6 cups water
sea salt, freshly ground pepper
1 onion, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup Arborio rice, preferably
1 cup mushrooms, sliced
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

To make a light vegetable broth: bring stock and water to a boil, lightly chop and add rinsed cabbage outer leaves, carrot, parsley, half of the savory, and garlic. Add the salt and pepper and simmer 15 -20 minutes.

In soup pot over medium heat, add olive oil, then the onion and sauté til tender, add the remaining garlic and savory. Wash the remainder of cabbage, core and cut leaves into strips and add to pot, reducing heat to low and cook until wilted. Add 6 cups of the broth and bring to simmer.

Add the rice and mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally for 15-25 minutes, til rice is cooked al dente. Add broth to thin. Serve with grated Parmesan cheese. Serves 4-6 as first course. ~~

Rice Pudding Encounter

Rice Pudding has been pinging me from all over the planet. It wants my attention, and I resist.

First, I begin with my apologies to Rice Pudding. I’ve had an attitude that it’s bland, mundane, it takes too long to cook, and it has far too few healthy attributes. So why bother? There are more interesting things to think about. Like custard. I adore anything with custard.

This avoidance must go back to the egg-thing: that deprivation of eggs we were all tied up in knots over for so long. Way too much cholesterol and fat! And now, even women of a certain age are caught up in the need for more calcium – must take care of those bones! I’m consuming more milk, yogurt, and cheese than ever.

Ah, echoes of comforting custard, the sublime solution! Not too long ago, I even toyed with the idea of developing a custard cookbook. I’ve collected untold ideas, recipes, photos – all related to custard. You can rest easy; there will be plenty of those unctuous treats woven thru the entries here. Clafoutis, don’t get me started!

Not too long ago I had a container of leftover rice sitting in my fridge. Hmmm, Rice Pudding is calling, but I’m not answering. Instead, enter previously mentioned Stuffed Cabbage Rolls, an excellent decision. Shortly after that, while rooting through a cupboard; I noticed an abundance of rice – 3 or 4 different types. Of course, thoughts went to risotto, paella, maybe soup, surely not Rice Pudding.

Then the brain storm. Why not try making Rice Pudding in the microwave??! I consulted Barbara Kafta’s authoritative book, Microwave Gourmet and was intrigued. The door was open.

Even from Kafta’s perspective, pre-cooked rice is the way to go. As a footnote in that regard, I find it easier to boil my rice instead of steaming it. It’s a snap to simply add about 1/3 the prescribed amount of cooked rice in its raw form to plenty of boiling water and simmer away for about 20 minutes. When it’s al dente, pour the rice into a sieve or strainer and allow it to drain and cool until needed.

Wouldn’t you know, it took me two rounds to get Rice Pudding right? Round one, I let it cook away in the microwave, unsupervised. Don’t. Be wary until you know how Rice Pudding with get along with your microwave. Ignored, it boiled over and I had one sorry mess on my hands. Fortunately, it was retrievable and edible, just not smart.

Round two, I watch Rice Pudding like a hawk, nodding and smiling diplomatically; an occasional stir, I murmur appreciatively as it transforms into a creamy, dreamy delight. Yes, Rice Pudding, you have me convinced and I will share you with my friends.

Divine Resolution, worthy of a visual record, Rice Pudding is a success... except for dropping my sticky camera on the floor and traumatically jamming the telephoto lens. Ah, Rice Pudding, joy upon joy.

Simple Pudding, Simple
Ready in under 30 minutes. Inspired by Barbara Kafta’s Microwave Gourmet

3 cups cooked white rice (1 cup rice cooked yields about 3 cups)
1/3 cup sugar
2 cups milk
1/2 cup raisins
pinch salt
1 egg
1/3 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

In a 4-quart glass measurer combine cooked rice, sugar, milk, raisins and pinch of salt. Cover with plastic wrap and cook in microwave for 5 minutes. Watch carefully towards end of cycle for boil over.

Remove wrap and stir well. Cover and cook 2 minutes longer, again watch carefully towards end of cooking cycle to avoid boil over. Repeat another 30 seconds longer, until it begins to boil.

With a fork beat remaining 1/3 cup milk, 1 egg and vanilla. Temper this with about 1/3 hot milk from rice mixture, and slowly add to rice, stirring to combine thoroughly. Cover and return to microwave for about 1 minute 30 seconds, avoid boiling. The milk custard should just coat the spoon. Serve warm or room temperature. Serves 6 ~~