Déjà vu: Tavern-style Pickled Eggs

This weekend I found an extra dozen eggs tucked way to the back of the fridge―something that is more likely to happen around Easter.  At the time, I was thinking about the approaching holidays and the need to clear the clutter of forgotten leftovers and near empty containers taking up value real estate.     

With hard-cooked eggs in mind, I deposited a half dozen of them into a pot of water on the stove, set them to simmer, and returned to peering in the fridge for whatever else might have been overlooked. 

 
Absentmindedly, my eyes fixed on a large jar of dill pickles―I had a momentary flashback to all of the jars of pickled eggs that I used to make.  In family days of yore their cool, spiciness made them a handy and satisfying snack.  Well, why not?
 

Once the eggs were at a rolling boil, I turned off the heat and let them stand for about 15 minutes to gently finish the cooking process.  Then I drained I them and covered them with icy water to discourage any egg yolk discoloration. 

Of course, the recipe was probably so simple I didn’t think it necessary to write it down, and the Joy of Cooking, my old standby during those days, was of no help.  A few online sites I reviewed verified that it is pretty basic and one or two accounts even confirmed my suspicions of diluting the vinegar―as full strength might toughen tender egg whites unnecessarily.      

 
While the eggs were cooling, I heated the pickling solution.  Apple cider vinegar was the best I could do, which I diluted with water, plus I added salt, a variety of pickling spices, garlic, and onion. 

Thanks to my refrigerator diving, I also freed up a medium glass container just the right size to hold my 6 eggs.  Of course, it was probably not necessary to chill the eggs down, since I poured the very hot liquid over the eggs.  Not sure how bright that was, as the egg I have since tested had a very slight ring around the yolk―certainly no deal breaker. 

Biting into the egg, I recalled that familiar slight resistance of the egg white, its tangy saltiness, and all the wonderful flavors that the yolk absorbs.  Oh, my.  Déjà vu.   

Tavern-style Pickled Eggs

Ingredients

6 hard cooked eggs, peeled

1½ cups of distilled vinegar plus ½ cup water

2 teaspoons sea salt
pickling blend:  a pinch each coriander seeds and mustard seeds, a few peppercorns and dried whole cloves, 3-4 dried red peppers, 1 bay leaf
½ onion, sliced
1clove garlic, sliced in slivers

1 qt. wide mouth jar, cleaned and dry. 

Instructions

In a medium pot,  bring the salt, the vinegar, and water to a boil to dissolve the salt; add the spices and simmer 5 minutes, add the onion and garlic and simmer an additional 5-10 minutes.      

 

With a strainer spoon layer the eggs, onions, and garlic in clean wide mouth jar.  Pour in the pickling mixture to fully cover the eggs.  Allow to cool before storing in refrigerator. 

 

Chill and allow the eggs to set overnight or longer.  Since these are not sterilized, they are best enjoyed within about 2 weeks. 

A Portobello Epiphany

Matsutake Mushrooms
Courtesy Cascade Mycological Society

If it’s true that in the spring a young man’s fancy turns to love, then here in the Pacific Northwest it surely must follow that in the fall a cook’s fancy turns to mushrooms.  Yes, once again, it is fall mushroom hunting season and thanks to a rainy September foragers are gleefully gearing up for a sumptuous bumper crop of boletes, chanterelles, matsutake, and even fabulous truffles. 

With such heady anticipation I’m feeling like an athlete in preparation for her next main event.  No question, I’m in mushroom training, and I need to get my practice in before unnecessarily risking it on those coveted delicacies. 



Portobellos

High mushroom alert kicked in while at my local market when I found myself immobilized with gaze locked, in front of the Portobello display.  They always have a great supply of fresh mushrooms, so this was nothing new.  In a shopper nanosecond I  experienced an epiphany; I visualized these beauties oddly transformed into chewy, pepper-dusted ribbons of mushroom jerky. 

 

Now that’s bizarre, because I certainly like beef and venison jerky, but I’d never contemplated mushroom jerky.  My course was instantly clear: I picked out the most perfect Portobellos and placed them in my cart.  I was ready for a  serious mushroom challenge.

Of major concern: issues of dirt, foreign matter, and potential critters dangerously lurking within the gills, a possible health risk in the dried product.  After a thorough cleaning with a soft brush and paper towels,  I marinated the thin slices in a flavorful soy based solution with enough salt to act as a preservative for approximately four hours.  The mushrooms were then fully cooked on the stovetop until devoid of pan liquids and the pieces were slightly caramelized.  

The size and meatiness of the Portobellos proved to be an asset in creating manageable and  appealing jerky. I set the slices on trays and stacked them in a food dehydrator for about 3-1/2 hours, until chewy and dry, but not brittle.

 

Final results:  a rich, elegant snack and a first-rate garnish for rainy  day soup.

 

Portobello Mushroom Jerky

Ingredients

2 Portobello mushrooms

Marinade

3 Tbsp. soy sauce

3 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

½ tsp. agave syrup or honey

½ tsp. sriracha sauce (or ½ tsp. Tabasco sauce plus one clove crushed garlic)

¼ tsp. onion powder

1 tsp. salt

½ tsp. freshly ground pepper plus additional for sprinkling on top

½ tsp. liquid smoke

Directions

Wipe the mushrooms well and slice them into thin strips; carefully layer in a zip lock bag.

Combine the marinade ingredients and pour it over the mushrooms. Allow them to marinate 3 to 4 hours, turning occasionally to moisten and coat all strips.

Drain the mushrooms and place them in flat in a non-stick sauté pan over medium heat.  Gently cook over medium to low heat until cooked thoroughly, 20-30 minutes. Brush half way through with more marinade.

Arrange mushroom slices on dehydrator trays and sprinkle them with more freshly ground pepper or red pepper flakes. Allow to dry for 3 to 4 hours, turning occasionally to dry evenly.  Remove when the mushrooms are dry, chewy and still pliable, but not brittle.   Store airtight. 

Pumpkin Reverie

Courtesy Shannon Graven

Thanks to the previously mentioned sweet meat pumpkin score that I made shortly before Halloween, I have finally reached my saturation point, and still, I have enough leftover pulp to freeze the last of it. 

I am still basking in its utter deliciousness.  All of it―the pumpkin gnocchi, pumpkin bread, the blondies, the ice cream… even the seeds are the very best ever. 

 

My take away from this:  no matter how comfortable I may have been in the past with canned pumpkin, I am forever changed.  Yes, the real fresh from the field heritage variety is so much better.  

 

 

In all of my indulgences, the rich, creaminess of true pumpkin shines through―it is not overwhelmed by spices or other additions.  

 

Again and again, I am reminded how much the delightful earthy flavors of all of these delicious treats taste of fall―and the changing seasons. 

 

 

 

 

 

Roasted Pumpkin Seeds

Ingredients

pumpkin seeds, cleaned of membrane

salt and water
2 teaspoons olive oil
 
Directions
Soak seeds in a salt water solution (1 to 2 tablespoons sea salt dissolved in 1 quart warm water) for several hours or overnight.  Drain the seeds and lightly pat dry.

Spread the seeds onto a well oiled baking sheet, and lightly toss to coat with a bit of the oil.  Bake at 350 degrees for approximately 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until golden browned. 

Conflicted by Crumpets

What is it about crumpets that makes them so endearing?  For the longest time these stodgy stepsisters of the elegant English muffin were hard to find, even unavailable in many American markets.  Perhaps the food marketers theorized, "Why bother, we have English muffins, don't we?" 


Crumpets from TastyDays.com

Once sampled, I was completely charmed by crumpets’ dense satisfying yeastiness. They evoke in me a peculiar primal yearning that must harken back to ancient days of yore and early gobs of comfort food.  Best described as a spongy cross between a pancake and a biscuit, these heavy lumps of air-specked dough surely lodge in the intestinal tract for days ―maybe years. 

Crumpets' air of mystery could come from the special props required to make them.  As with the luminous pan for the lofty kugelhopf, or the shell-shaped molds for classic madeleines, special metal rings hold the batter/dough in place on a griddle until crumpets are set and firm enough to cook on their own. 

I toted a set of rings around for years and finally sold them at a yard sale - in their original box.  Truth be told, I was more than a little intimidated by the cooking process. 

My fears were quelled recently when the cheeky video, “The Great British Crumpet” from Titli’s Busy Kitchen, popped up on YouTube.  In her version, Titli manages to de-mystify the formidable art of British crumpet making. 

 


It looks like fun, I mused, but what about the rings?  In my pantry, I eyed two cans of tuna fish and sensed I had a close enough match.  Why did I need six anyway?  Titli gets by quite nicely with only two rings. 
 
Forewarned:  the tuna cans did not work.  Bumblebee has re-engineered their cans with a curved bottom edge, making them far too difficult to cut open with a manual can-opener.  Fortunately, Dole pineapple has not seen the need to do so.  I moved on―with one ring. 

The batter-like dough came together in a bubbly gooey mass and filled the ring mold, just like Titli's.  That’s where the similarities ended.   Even with adjustments to burner heat, the interior of the crumpets lacked their characteristic large holes and remained soggy when sliced.    

Of course, that didn’t stop me; I finished the cooking process in the microwave.  While steaming hot, I slathered a slightly shrunken version with butter, and proceeded to burn the roof of my mouth devouring it―but ready to test the next. One ring worked well with this method.  Unfortunately, my rhythm did not allow time to document my findings. 

Who knows when next I will be tempted to try again? I’m still digesting the last batch.    For future reference, here's my working copy of Titli's recipe: 

The Great British Crumpet

From Titli's Busy Kitchen

Ingredients

1 cup warm milk

¾ cup warm water, divided

1 teaspoon each active yeast and granulated sugar

½ teaspoon salt (my addition)

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder 

Instructions

Proof the yeast with ½ cup warm water and sugar until it bubbles, about 10 minutes.  (My option; Titli combines all liquids here and proofing was very slow.)  

In a large bowl combine the yeast mixture, the milk, remaining water, and the salt.  Whisk in the flour until the mixture is smooth.  Cover and let rise in warm place until light, about 1 hour.

When ready, in a small bowl combine the baking power with about 2 tablespoons warm water and stir into the dough. 

Preheat non-stick pan with flat bottom over medium heat and spread the muffin rings thoroughly with butter.  When hot place, butter the pan, place the rings in pan and fill each with ½” to 3/4” full.  Reduce heat to medium low to avoid burning.  Allow to cook undisturbed until the muffin rises and surface is filled with bubbles (like pancakes), about 10 minutes.  Run knife around the edge to release and turn to toast second side, 1 minute or longer.  Wash the rings, butter again, and repeat.

Summer Time Pizza

I love summer pizza when sun ripe herbs and vegetables are at their peak.  Here is a sublime version we recently devoured that is crowned with a glorious tomato-basil salad.

Basil, oh Basil!

 As I pulled the pizza from the oven, the heady aroma of garlic, basil, and cheese was almost too much to bear. Fortunately there is little down time since the last minute topping of the flavorful lemony-dressed arugula salad is ready and waiting.   

We were so into enjoying the pizza that we did not even spare the time to snap a photo of this beauty. Trust me, it is both beautiful and delicious.

The fact is, this yummy pizza is all about the pesto, and amazingly, it seems I have previously failed to provide a recipe for it. 

So, if pesto making is on your horizon,  now is the time to find a good supply of fresh basil, pull out the blender or food processor, and give this one a whirl. The pine nuts are not essential, but they greatly enhance the pesto and provide the mysterious smoky ingredient that binds the texture and flavors of the olive oil, basil, garlic and Parmesan cheese.  Enjoy!

Summer Pizza topped with Tomato-Basil Salad

Ingredients

Pizza:

·         1 Pizza Crust, prebaked

·         1/3 cup fresh pesto (see below)

·         2 roasted red peppers, skinned and seeded, cut into strips

·         ½ large sweet onion, such as Walla Walla, peeled and cut into strips

·         1 cup grated melting cheese such as mozzarella or Muenster, divided

·         2 oz. dry Coppa or prosciutto ham, cut into strips

·         1/3 cup Parmesan cheese grated

 Salad:

·         1 ½  cups sliced baby tomatoes

·         18 or more arugula or romaine leaves cut into thin strips (about 3 cups)

·         1/3 cup fresh basil, julienned

Dressing:

·         juice of ½ lemon (about 2 Tbsps.)

·         1 clove garlic, crushed

·         ½ tsp. Dijon mustard

·         ¼ tsp. salt and pepper, each

·         2 tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese, divided

·         1/3 cup olive oil

  

Directions

For the Pizza:

1.       Spread the crust with a thin film of of pesto.

2.       Cover the pesto with a  layer of onions, then the red pepper.  Sprinkle the vegetables with half of the mozzarella or Muenster.

3.       Top the cheese with a layer of Coppa strips, then the remaining cheese, and finally the Parmesan.

4.       Bake in 425 degree oven for 8-10 minutes or until cheese begins to bubble and brown.

Allow to cool slightly before cutting.

  

For the Salad and Dressing:

1.       For dressing, in a small jar combine the lemon juice through 1 Tbsp. Parmesan.  Add the olive oil and shake until thick.  The dressing can be made ahead. 

2.       Shortly before serving, place tomatoes, lettuce and basil in a bowl.

To assemble pizza, toss the salad with the dressing until well coated.

Spread the pizza with tomato-arugula salad or drape individual pizza slices with a spoonful of the salad. Sprinkle with remaining 1 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese and serve. Serves 2, or more, maybe.

Pinoli Pesto  
Ingredients

·         2 heaping cups basil leaves, stems removed; washed and dried

·         2-3 cloves garlic, sliced

·         ½  tsp. salt

·         ¼  tsp. black pepper or red pepper flakes

·         1/3  cup pine nuts, toasted

·         1/3 cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

·         2/3 cup olive oil

Directions 

Place all except olive oil in container of blender.  Slowly add the olive oil and blend until all leaves are incorporated and pesto is thick, with a slight grainy consistency.  Yield:  1 cup.  Store in refrigerator.