The Case of the Mysterious Tapioca

The other day I was blindly pawing through a cupboard and tipped over a long-forgotten box of tapioca.  Fortunately, the potential mess was averted as it was confined to a zip-lock storage bag, so I set it to the back of the counter for later consideration.   That’s the thing about tapioca.  It’s not a staple that I regularly use and it is packaged in a fairly small box that tends to get lost and forgotten.  Even if it’s in line for rotation it is easily squeezed out by the bigger players, unwittingly benched to the back of the shelf.    

Unless you are a slave to old-fashioned tapioca pudding or inclined to pie baking, tapioca may carry with it very little value or significance.   I had no clear recollection of why or when I last used it and wondered if it was still good. Later, I took a closer look at the slim classic red and white box, on the top of the box was stamped Nov. 08, 2010.  Hmmm.  I also noted it was microwaveable ‘minute’ tapioca, not the original pearl variety.  Beyond that, I recalled that it’s advisable to soak the larger pearl tapioca first.  Why? What’s the difference? I puzzled.

I did a little further digging and thanks to Ellen at Ellen’s Kitchen, I found a helpful explanation of tapioca in its various incarnations.   Fact is, it’s a pretty powerful thickening agent known to out-match flour in many sauces and long cooking dishes.  Tapioca comes from the cassava plant’s root system, of which some portions are highly poisonous.  This is a point worth fully researching if you are considering a future in tapioca markets.

It’s a complicated process.  Their preferred roots are ground into a pulp, and then liquefied into a starch that is dried and pulverized again before becoming tapioca flour.   To make pre-cooked pearls, the tapioca flour and water is slowly simmered until it reaches the dried flake stage.  At this point the flakes are milled into recognizable uniform pearl shapes―of which the smallest is the instant or minute tapioca, with its noticeably small pearls. The larger pearls need to be soaked again to soften them for cooking purposes.       

Along the way, I also read that tapioca can lose its thickening power if it has been opened too long.  Oops. I decided to ignore the warning, jump right in, and continue my investigation into the mysteries of tapioca.  I passed on the pie idea; I was interested in something a little more outside the box.  I knew I was onto something good when I discovered Judith Fertig’s Lemony Baked Apple Tapioca in All-American Desserts. This is an invaluable resource that celebrates a wide swath of regional sweets, all owning a particular spot in the American landscape of desserts.

Unlike the average tapioca pudding which requires tedious stirring, here apples and tapioca simmer unattended in the oven.  As usual, I made a few adjustments along the way, like substituting ¾ cup brown sugar  for 1 cup granulated sugar and a hint of vanilla in lieu of fresh lemon juice. 

This cleverly comes together in a charming pudding with bites of baked apple adrift in nubby tapioca all mysteriously tucked under a golden brown meringue dome.  Best of all,  time did not seem to alter tapioca’s amazing ability to manifest into a thick and tasty pudding.  Now, that’s deliciously entertaining. 

 

Baked Apple Tapioca 

Inspired by All-American Desserts, Judith M. Fertig

Ingredients

2 tart apples, such a Granny Smith or Jonathan, peeled, cored, and cut up

1 lemon, zest

1/3 cup quick-cooking tapioca
1 tsp. vanilla
4 cups milk
¾ cup brown sugar
2 eggs, separated
1 Tbsp. cinnamon-sugar
 
Directions 
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter the bottom of a 2-qt baking dish.  Arrange the apple pieces over the bottom and sprinkle with lemon zest.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the tapioca, vanilla, milk, sugar, and egg yolks.  In a medium bowl, whip the egg whites until stiff.  Whisk the whites into the tapioca-milk mixture until lightly blended. 

Sprinkle the apples with the cinnamon-sugar and pour the tapioca-milk mixture over the fruit.

Bake until the tapioca has firmed and apples are soft, approximately 30-40 minutes. (Allow the pudding to cook about 10 minutes after it begins to bubble.)  It will thicken and set as it cools, serve warm.   Yield:   6 or more servings. 

Magnificent Obsession: Blueberries, Hazelnuts and Chocolate

It’s blueberry season in Oregon again.  Since there is an organic blueberry farm just down the road from my house, one afternoon recently I dropped everything and made a dash for the blueberry patch. 

As thunder clouds rumbled in the distance, I donned the harness that holds the bucket in place and headed to a promising row nearby.  I sampled a few as I checked the bushes for quality and quantity.  Yes indeed, it was another good year:  they were succulent and sweet. 

 

I’ve learned that under the long leafy branches plump clumps of berries are frequently overlooked by other pickers.  I held the branches over my bucket and went to town, filling my hands while allowing the bucket to catch the fat juicy ones that inadvertently fell as I picked.  Within about 1 ½ hours I had collected four pounds of berries and was on my way home when the storm hit. 

Back at the house, I sorted through my haul removing random leaves, attached stems, unripe or bruised berries; then carefully rinsed them.  I set aside a large bowlful for immediate snacking, cooking and sharing, laid the rest out onto baking sheets, and popped them into the freezer for later bagging and storage.   

I had bigger plans on my agenda and already knew what I wanted next.  One of the reasons for the frantic run to the berry farm was to satisfy my re-occurring blueberry smoothie dreams.  This was not any smoothie, mind you; this one was going to be a humdinger.  Blueberries and hazelnuts are big crops here in Oregon and I have long recognized their affinity and have especially enjoyed them together in salads. 

On this day, it was all about that jar of Nutella sitting in my pantry, and the magical combination of hazelnuts and chocolate.  All forms of berries partner up beautifully with chocolate.  Why not blueberries, hazelnuts and chocolate ― in a smoothie?  I may be delusional, but I considered this a smoothie of potentially magnificent proportions.

As I pull out blender ingredients I recall my whirlwind frozen yogurt episodes utilizing instant pudding mix.  I’m passing on the yogurt ― too jolting with the berries.  I reach for low fat milk instead, and add only a dash of the pudding mixture to ensure a thick creaminess. I grab the vanilla to enhance the flavors and pull out ice cubes to increase the chill factor. 

I’ve now tried several renditions and prefer to back off on the Nutella (really?) just a tad to allow the glorious blueberries to shine through.  There is a delicate balance between the luscious chocolate-hazelnut blend and the gentle berry flavors. Surprisingly, 2 tablespoons of Nutella seems too much, and 1 tablespoon is not quite enough.  You be the judge. 

This makes two filling servings, but I assure you, it’s easy to polish it all off by yourself ― once you get started.

Blueberry Obsession: Blueberry, Hazelnut and Chocolate Smoothie

Ingredients

·         1 ½ cups blueberries, fresh or frozen

·         1 Tbsp. white chocolate instant pudding mix

·         1 ½ Tbsp. Nutella (1 heaping tablespoon)

·         1 cup low fat milk

·         ½ tsp. vanilla

·         1 cup crushed ice

Directions 

Place all ingredients in blender container and blend for two minutes.  Pour into tall glasses and serve with straws. Serves 2.

The Answer is: Millet.

Hot on the heels of my sojourn out of the country for nearly three months, I’m back aboard the whole grain train again.  

With all the fried and rich spicy food that I devoured while in Mexico, it was time for some simple, unadulterated comfort food.  And millet was my answer. 

Now that I’ve become more familiar with millet mechanics, I’ve learned it is extremely forgiving.  When it comes to cooking time, millet tolerates a wide margin of error. Although I usually allow about 20 minutes overall, the consequences of under or over cooking it seem minimal.   

Millet is happy to drift into the background and just hang out.  Its moderately small grains and mild nuttiness make it a great foil for other more substantial textures and flavors.  

 

Here’s my version of a convenient homemade custard pudding that is soothingly suitable for many occasions.  Start with a quick and easy custard, add the cooked millet, stir in a handful of dried fruit such as apricots and golden raisins, and top it with toasted sugared almonds.   

For an easy parfait variation, omit the dried fruit and layer the pudding in stemware alternately with sweetened fresh berries.   

Millet Pudding

Ingredients

1/2 cup millet

1 ½ cup boiling water

pinch salt

2 Tbsp. cornstarch

2 cups milk

1/3 cup brown sugar

2 eggs

½ tsp. each vanilla and/or almond extract

Optional ingredients and variations:

2/3 cup dried fruit:  such as 1/3 cup golden raisins, 1/3 cup chopped dried apricots

1 cup fresh berries or other suitable fruit:  toss lightly with 1-2 tbsp sugar

½ cup slivered almonds, toasted in a dry pan with 1 tsp. sugar

Directions 

1.       To pre-cook the millet, bring salted water to a boil, stir in the millet.  Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for approximately 20 minutes.  Note:   you will have more millet than you will need. (Freeze the remainder, or try it as a hot cereal for breakfast.)

2.       For the custard, in a small pan over medium heat, whisk milk, cornstarch, sugar and eggs and bring to a simmer.  Continue to whisk until mixture begins to thicken about 3-5 minutes. 

3.       Stir in extract, 1 cup or more millet and dried fruit if using.  Let stand briefly and then pour into serving bowl or portion into individual dishes.  Top with toasted sweetened slivered almonds.  Yield:  serves 4.

Variation:  In parfait glasses, spoon layers of millet pudding alternately with sweetened fresh berries or other fruit.  If desired top with toasted nuts or additional fruit. 

Nieve, as in Snow

Nieve.  Even the word rolls off the tongue and curls the lips in pleasure.  

 On a warm day, there’s nothing like it to instantly refresh and sparkle the taste buds.  Nieve, or snow in español, refers to fruit and water based ices and sorbets of a near limitless variety; some vendors even offer a creamy milk version. 

Nieve stands are a way of life in Mexico; their carts and small tiendas dot the street corners and calles. 

It’s hard to believe such a refreshing treat can be had for only few pesos, or less than a dollar.  In Mexico City recently, a guanabana-mamey combination was so stunning, I had return for more.  

Next door to my Queretaro casa, an addictive nieve stand is enthusiastically supported by the locals.   Early every Wednesday a mob begins to form in front of the small space, and it stays that way all day.  

 Anyone who loves nieve knows that today is 2-for-1 day, and it is well worth the wait for a few scoops of heaven. 

 Mango, coconut, or pineapple, are always popular; then there’s frequently queso or cheese, cappuccino, usually some version of chocolate, and often pistachio. The mantecado reminds me of an old-fashioned buttery spumoni with nuts and fruit. 

 
Rick Bayless and his Frontera Grill have done much to promote the foods of Mexico.  In his cookbook, One Plate at  Time, he offers a fascinating Elote Nieve, or Sweet Corn Ice Cream, which I can’t wait to tackle on my return home.  

For now, here is an authentic yet simple alternative from Rick:  Nieve de Tuna or Fresh Prickly Pear Ice.  He even explains how to handle the critters, so if your market offers prickly pears, there are no excuses.  Enjoy!

Nieve de Tuna  Fresh Prickly Pear Ice

From Rick Bayless,  Authentic Mexican

Ingredients

3 1/2 pounds (about 18 medium) fresh prickly pears (tunas)
1 cup sugar, plus a little more if necessary
About 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Directions

Roughly chop the peeled prickly pears.  Place the fruit in a blender or food processor, add 1 cup water, the sugar and lime juice, and blend for several minutes, until the sugar is dissolved. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve; taste for sweetness and tartness, adding more sugar or lime juice as necessary. If time permits, chill thoroughly.
Pour the mixture into the canister of ice cream freezer and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions. When the ice comes from the machine, it may be rather soft; for a firmer texture, let it "ripen" in your freezer for a couple of hours before serving.  Yield: 5 to 6 cups, 6 to 8 servings

To  prepare the prickly pears:   cut a 1/2-inch slice off both ends of the prickly pears; make a 1/2-inch-deep incision down one side, end to end. Carefully (avoid the little stickers) peel off the rind, starting from  incision: The rind is thick and, if ripe, will easily peel away from the central core of fruit.

Traditional Variations:  for mango, peach, nectarine or cantaloupe, peel, pit and/or seed about 2 pounds (slightly more for cantaloupe) fruit, to yield 2 cups of fruit pulp. Puree with 1 1/2 cups water, 3/4 to 1 cup sugar, and lime juice to taste.