Monday, November 23, 2009

Kohlrabi Wrestling



I’ve had a 3 pound kohlrabi rolling around in my refrigerator for over a week now. I brought it home after a recent work day at the GrassRoots Garden, trimmed off its gangly cabbage-like leaves, crammed it into a rear corner of the fridge, and proceeded to ignore it.

Actually, I’d been procrastinating because other than nibbling on it raw, I hadn’t the slightest idea what to do with a massive 3 pound kohlrabi. Lamenting my uncertainty to fellow gardener, Claire, she raved and recommended a curry treatment. Huh.

After a little research, I learn that kohlrabi is low in calories, about 19 per ½ cup; it’s high in fiber, potassium, calcium, vitamin A and C. It has a mild cabbage-like flavor and a moist, crisp texture. I’m told to look for 2” bulbs; if larger, peel them. Right. The kohlrabi is very popular in Northern India, and has made its way to Israel, China and Africa. It is also used in Italian, French and German cuisines.

This evening I decide it's time to confront the behemoth taking up way too much refrigerator space. I hack away--peeling and whacking it into bite size morsels. I have a small bag of lentils which I pre-cook while wrestling with the rock-hard rascal. The remainder of the dish comes together quickly and by the time my jasmine rice is cooked the kohlrabi is tender (20 minutes). I suspect my 8” specimen takes a little longer than the average 2” bulb. I’m not sure my rendition is authentically Indian, but it sure is good.

Kohlrabi Indian Curry
Inspiration from Fondy Market (www.fondmarket.org)

1 Tbsp oil
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tsp ground coriander
1/4 tsp ground cumin
1 Thai chilies, split open, seeds remaining
1 large onion, chopped
1 green finger pepper, seeded, cut into rings
1 large tomato peeled and chopped (or 1 14 oz can)
1 T tomato paste
2 medium kohlrabi globe (1 pound), peeled and cut into ¼ inch cubes
kohlrabi leaves, rib removed and cut into strips
1 cup cooked lentils, liquid reserved or 1 can chickpeas (14 oz)
3 cups stock
salt to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Heat oil in heavy pan. Stir in turmeric, coriander, cumin, chilies, and onion. Sauté on medium heat until onion browns about 8 minutes.

Add chopped tomatoes, pepper, tomato paste and sauté another 5 minutes.

Add kohlrabi, lentils, and stock. Cover and cook until kohlrabi becomes tender—about 9 minutes.

If using kohlrabi greens add in the final 5 minutes of cooking.

Garnish with cilantro. Serves 8.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Food Safety Bill

The Senate Health, Education, Labor, and Pensions (HELP) Committee will mark up S. 510, the Senate version of major food safety legislation already approved by the House of Representatives, on Wednesday, November 18.

The bill focuses on foods regulated by the Food and Drug Administration, not meat and poultry which is regulated by USDA.

The bill includes several key reforms that would put real teeth into federal regulation of large-scale food processing corporations to better protect consumers. However, the bill as written would also do serious harm to family farm value added processing, local and regional food systems, conservation and wildlife protection, and organic farming.

The good news is the HELP committee could fix those problems with the adoption of some common sense provisions to retain a crack down on corporate bad actors without erecting dangerous new barriers to the growing healthy food movement based on small and mid-sized family farms, sustainable and organic production methods, and more local and regional food sourcing.

The National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition and the National Organic Coalition, have fashioned just such a set of common sense provisions that must be added to S 510.

 - The bill should provide small and mid-sized family farms that market value-added farm products with training and technical assistance in developing food safety plans for their farms.

- The bill should direct FDA to narrow the kinds of farm activities subject to FDA control and to base those regulations on sound risk analysis. (Current FDA rules assume, without any scientific evidence or risk analysis, that all farms which undertake any one of a long list of processing, labeling or packaging activities should be regulated.)

- The bill should direct FDA to ease compliance for organic farmers by integrating the FDA standards with the organic certification rules. FDA compliance should not jeopardize a farmer's ability to be organically certified under USDA's National Organic Program.

- The bill should insist that FDA food safety standards and guidance will not contradict federal conservation, environmental, and wildlife standards and practices, and not force the farmer to choose which federal agency to obey and which to reject.

-  Farmers who sell directly to consumers should not be required to keep records and be part of a federal "traceback" system. All other farms should not be required to maintain records electronically or records beyond the first point of sale beyond the farmgate.

From The Community Food Security Coalition


Saturday, October 24, 2009

The Great Pumpkin Experiment

Yes indeed, we’re into superlatives.

For qualifiers, I’ll begin by simply stating that I have succeeded in creating The Great Pumpkin Bar. This may be of no consequence to those uninterested in pumpkin matters, but to the rest of the world, it's a very big deal.


I am one of those who adore anything that includes pumpkin: ice cream, pasta sauce, you name it.  I don’t understand why it takes the age of Halloween to roll around before my thoughts automatically shift to pumpkin, but every year it comes on strong.

In years past I have tinkered with pumpkin bars and I’m always quite happy with the results. This year, however, I wanted to bake a bar that was just a little different: not the cheesecake/swirl type, or the gingerbread/pumpkin sort, or the mini-pie affairs.

I knew what I didn’t want.

The results are an indescribably-delicious-dense-heart-warming-ginger-spiced pumpkin melange resting between a crumb crust and topping.

You be the judge, and may the Great Pumpkin be with you, too.  Happy Halloween.

The Great Pumpkin Bars

Crumb Crust and Topping
1 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 cup oatmeal
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup butter, moderately cold, in chunks

Pumpkin Filling
2 eggs
1/3 cup vegetable oil
3/4 cup sugar, a combo 1/2 c. granulated and 1/4 c. brown is good
15 ounces canned pumpkin pulp
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 tablespoons crystallized ginger, chopped
1/2 cup chopped nuts, hazelnuts or walnuts are good
Preheat oven to 350 degrees, line and spray 9x13 pan.

For the crumb crust: place the dry ingredients in mixing bowl, and mix well with paddle. Add butter and continue to mix until crumbs form. Remove about 2/3 cup for topping. Spread the remainder in baking pan, press down. Bake until the crust begins to color, approximately 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare filling: wipe out mixing bowl, add the eggs and beat well; add the oil and continue to beat until light. Add the sugar and continue beating; add the spices. Separately combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Blend about 2/3 of dry into filling, add the crystallized ginger and raisins, and then stir in the remaining flour mixture until combined. 

Spread the filling evenly over the baked crust. Add the nuts to the crumb topping and sprinkle evenly over the filling. Bake 35-40 minutes, until sides pull away from pan. Remove from oven and cool on rack. Cut into about 25 bars.

Friday, October 16, 2009

A Veritable Quandary

No, this is not a review of that legendary Portland Restaurant.  I’m referring to my state of mind upon a first appraisal of my bumper crop of green tomatoes. I am learning that this is one of the benefits and challenges of a successful garden. The zucchini plight, I understand, but what about all those green tomatoes?

I dashed outside between rainstorms this past week and gathered up a big bowlful of green plum tomatoes that were still clutching onto their vines. Ever the unengaged gardener, I had to reach this point before I could fully confront the obvious: what do I do with all these green tomatoes? Now, there are the old stand-bys--like Fried Green Tomatoes or Green Tomato Pie, but they seem just a little too pedestrian for my first foray into a new and exciting food realm. Well, of course. It’s my best rainy day default: Soup.

Peppered bacon gets all the credit, because that’s what started the ball rolling. At Food Network, Emeril and I seemed to be thinking along the same lines: I imagined a sort of BLT in a bowl. This lovely bright soup is so yummy that admittedly, I had a second sampling just to make certain it was that good. Emeril suggests a drizzle of Cilantro Oil, which I passed on; it just doesn’t need any further embellishments—beyond a healthy smattering of peppered bacon.

Spicy Green Tomato Soup
Inspired by Emeril Lagasse, Food Network

2 slices pepper bacon, diced
1 medium onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 whole garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 bay leaf
2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and diced
2 yellow Hungarian or banana peppers, or others such as Anaheim, or poblano, seeded and diced
1 3/4 pounds firm green tomatoes, cored and cut into eighths and chop
3 cups chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons hot sauce

In a soup pot cook the bacon until crispy, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the bacon, and drain on a paper towel. Remove all but 2 tbsp bacon fat from pot.

Add the onion to the pot and saute until soft, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic, bay leaf and peppers, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and stock, salt and pepper. Bring the liquid to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook soup for 10 to 15 minutes or until the tomatoes soften.

Remove the bay leaf, and using a handheld blender, lightly puree the soup leaving a slight chunky texture so that ingredients are still identifiable. Stir in the lemon juice and hot sauce to taste. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper.

To serve, ladle the soup into individual bowls and garnish with reserved bacon. Serves 6 ~~

Sunday, October 11, 2009

A Picked Passel of Peppers

For the past week or so I have been volunteering at our community GrassRoots Garden. Merry, the wonder woman in charge there encourages young and old to come, visit, work, or simply savor whatever the garden offers up that day.

The 2 ½ acre garden started about 18 years ago as a partnership between the Master Gardeners, Food for Lane County, and our local St. Thomas Episcopal Church. Since then, it has become a glorious setting that teaches earth-friendly gardening and self-sufficiency. Over time the garden has evolved and taken on its own personality: it’s inviting, energizing, and healing.

It’s harvest time, and there’s heightened activity to bring in the crops before the rain and frost arrives. I’ve been assigned to pulling up tomato plants and cages – it’s back breaking work, but totally rewarding. On Friday, I returned in time to join the volunteers for lunch. The food team that day had prepared a big pot of wheat pasta tossed with a freshly cooked tomato sauce, loaded with peppers, onion, and garlic. As we sat under the grape arbor sheltered from the afternoon sun, there was a relaxed calm. For many, this is regarded as a safe place, a sanctuary, and retreat from life’s hardships and challenges.

That day I met a woman 3 months pregnant with twins, a severely handicapped man, a 7’ professional basketball player, several teenagers, an elderly man and his dog, and a couple of women that had arrived by bus from across town. We all chatted as we worked and enjoyed the coolness of the fall afternoon.

I left the garden with a big bag of mixed peppers. On the drive home I suddenly felt emboldened by my afternoon experience--and moved to face one of my biggest fears: canning. 

I’m not exactly sure why I have avoided canning all these years; perhaps I don’t completely trust my ability to safely pull this off. Although I have no problems eating commercial products, I’m a bit skeptical of the home canning process; things like salmonella and botulism concern me, a lot. My daughter has also been bit by the canning bug this year, and has shared her successes with me; with her added encouragement I prepared for a pickled pepper canning challenge.

Armed with my daughter’s advice and my trusty standby, Helen Witty’s Fancy Pantry, I proceeded. Their ideas were surprisingly similar, so I felt I was on fairly solid ground. The peppers are not peeled or cooked ahead; they are packed into jars, covered with an easy brine and seasonings, and processed in a hot water bath. How simple is that?

According to Helen they should stand a couple of weeks before sampling, so I am unable to make any further pronouncements at this time. Stay tuned!

Pickled Peppers
Inspired by Helen Witty’s Fancy Pantry

2 1/2 pounds small peppers, red, orange, yellow, washed, seeded cut into 1/8s or wide strips
7 1/2 cups water
1 1/2 tablespoons sea salt
2 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
4 cloves garlic, peel, sliced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
8 dried red peppers
2 tablespoons olive oil

Wash, rinse and drain eight 1 pint canning jars, lids and bands.
Pack sliced peppers into jars, add a few slices of garlic, a sprinkling of oregano, 1 chile pepper to each jar.

Combine the water, vinegar, salt and bring it to a boil, stir to dissolve the salt. Pour the hot liquid over the peppers leaving approx. 1/2" headspace, and drizzle each with approximately 1 tsp. olive oil.

Top with lids and bands and process jars in boiling water bath for 20 minutes, or according to manufacturers directions. Remove from heat and let stand uncovered for 5 minutes, remove to baking sheet and cool undisturbed for about 12 hours. Tighten the lids and allow to stand for 2 weeks or longer. ~~

Monday, October 5, 2009

Lost and Found: Hollywood Diet Bread

Recently during a conversation with my daughter I was teasing her about being partially made of Hollywood Diet Bread. While I was pregnant back in the 60’s, my body experienced a complete reversal, and tragically I could not bear to be around food. The idea of it, let alone the smell of it -- made me miserably sick. I was one of those rare pregnant women, who instead of gaining too much, lost weight.

Fortunately, early on I discovered that two slices of toasted Hollywood Diet Bread, along with a couple of soft boiled eggs would soothe my queasy stomach and perk me right up--it was just about all I could keep down! It became quite the joke-- even a pregnant woman could loose weight on Hollywood Diet Bread! Nevertheless, I loved being pregnant and I associate this bread with fond memories. Since it holds a very special place in my heart I’ve always liked having a loaf salted away in the freezer--for those moments of nostalgia. Sadly, over the years it has become increasingly difficult to find.

When I mentioned this to my daughter, she suggested that I should try making my own. Huh, what concept. For those who may have missed this venerable institution, Hollywood Diet Bread was hailed for having only 46 calories per slice—plus it contained carrots, sea kelp, cabbage, and other mysterious vegetables and healthful ingredients. In spite of all these additions, it had a light texture, was mild tasting and surprisingly satisfying. Mostly, I remember one key element: the characteristic sesame seeds on top.

With that in mind, I went to work on this seriously daunting challenge, and I’m pleased to report my first results in developing an updated version of this beloved bread. Based on my incredibly high expectations, the loaf turned out amazing well! The texture and crumb are that of a fine sandwich loaf, the flavor is mild, well balanced with a slight sweet nuttiness from the wheat and sesame seeds. I’m still a bit puzzled by the color which is caramel with a faint tinge of green. Some might find this questionable, and it could be adjusted by deleting the kale, but since I like everything else about it, why mess with a good thing? I suspect the color of the loaf will be affected by the type and size of vegetables included. Note that I used one medium plum tomato; a larger one may make all the difference… or maybe a beet…

What I do know, is that I feel like an old best friend is back--with a face lift! I think I’ll try another piece...

Final wrap: This is a very easy loaf to make since it is a no-knead dough that beats about 7 minutes in the mixer. The vegetables need to be cooked and pureed, which is key to the success of this bread. For speed, I used the microwave and was done in a flash. A quick pulse in the blender with the rest of the liquids and you are ready to go.


Harvest Wheat BreadMy version of “Hollywood Diet Bread"
1 envelope yeast, rapid rising
1/4 cup warm water
1 medium carrot, chopped
1 medium plum tomato, chopped
5 medium kale leaves, or comparable spinach, or other green leaf, chop
1/2 stick celery, chopped with leaves if available
1 tablespoon parsley, or other mild herb
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 egg, divided (save about 1 Tbsp. egg white for glaze)
1/2 cup milk, or other liquid
1 1/2 cups wheat flour
1 1/2 cups enriched white
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sesame seeds

In mixing bowl, sprinkle yeast on top of water and let stand about 7 minutes until it begins to bubble. Spray a 9x5" loaf pan.

Microwave the carrot and tomato until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add kale, celery, parsley and sugar and microwave until kale is wilted, another 2 minutes. Allow to cool briefly and puree the vegetable mixture in blender along with oil, egg and milk. There should be about 1 2/3 cup of this thick mixture.

In mixing bowl, add the flours, salt and vegetable mixture to the active yeast. Combine all and beat for about 7 minutes until it forms a shaggy dough. Scrap into loaf pan and smooth evenly with floured fingers if necessary. Cover with plastic wrap, sprayed; let stand until it reaches the top of the pan, about 1 hour. Meanwhile preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Make a glaze with reserved egg white and about 2 tsp. water. Brush the top of the loaf with the glaze and sprinkle evenly with sesame seeds. Bake about 45 minutes until it is nicely browned and has pulled away from the pan. Remove from pan and cool on rack. Makes 1 loaf ~~

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Lavender Highlights

The lovely tall arched blossom wands of my lavender plants have been winking and waving at me lately with their most seductive “come hither” look. It’s their last hurrah of the season and they want to be memorialized, not left high and dry.

In that spirit, I went online and visited a few of my fellow food writers and bloggers to see what they were doing with lavender. Over at http://www.seriouseats.com/, an Italian Lavender Honey Spice Cake caught my attention; I’ve always been a sucker for French honey spice cake. Another promising idea for Lavender Syrup, came from http://www.cafejohnsonia.blogspot.com/.

Lavender honey is luscious, but not this time around I mused; so why not create lavender syrup and drizzle it over the cake after it is baked? Thus, evolved Prune and Fennel Tea Bread Laced with Lavender Syrup, a dense loaf scattered with dried plums and toasted hazelnuts. It's a far cry from the Lavender Honey Spice Cake, but it was my starting point, and I appreciate the impetus. However, it is similar to the honey cake in that it improves with age. If you can bear it, wrap the loaf tightly and let it rest in the fridge a day or two to allow the flavors to meld; it’s well worth the wait. Try it in the afternoon with a cup of Earl Grey Tea.

I have some thoughts on Lavender Syrup. Lavender is known for its therapeutic and medicinal qualities, and can become seriously intense when overdone. This particular syrup is well balanced and intoxicatingly mild. It’s so enjoyable, that I have concocted a refreshing cooler which takes advantage of my current supply of Lavender Syrup: in a glass, muddle 1-2 Tbsp. Lavender Syrup and a sprig of mint, add ice and top it off with Sparkling Water with Lemon Essence.

Prune and Fennel Tea Bread Laced with Lavender Syrup
1/2 cup prunes (dried plums), about 10 large, seeded & lightly chop
1/4 cup hazelnuts, chopped, toasted
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted
1 1/2 cups flour, optional: substitute 1/2 cup wheat flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 large eggs
2/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons butter, melted, cooled
2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil
1/2 cup yogurt, or sour milk
1 teaspoon vanilla or almond extract
1/2 cup Lavender Syrup (see below)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 9x5" loaf pan.

Combine prunes, nuts and fennel and set aside. Combine dry ingredients thru allspice and set aside.
In a mixing bowl, lightly beat eggs, then whisk in sugar until light. Whisk in melted butter, then the oil. Stir in 1/3 of the dry ingredients, then 1/2 of the combined yogurt and vanilla. Stir in another 1/3 of the dry, then the remaining milk and vanilla. Add the final dry ingredients and the fruit and nut mixture. Spread into loaf pan and bake 50-60 minutes until golden and pick inserted comes out clean.

Let the loaf stand briefly, then poke the loaf with a skewer. Slowly drizzle the syrup over the loaf. Let stand 10-15 minutes to allow syrup to soak in and remove the cake from pan. Cool on rack.

Wrapped well, this cake improves with age; if possible, allow the flavors to blend at a least a day or two.

Lavender Syrup
Inspired by
cafejohnsonia.blogspot.com
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
2-3 tablespoons lavender leaves or flowers
dash vanilla extract

Bring water and sugar to a boil, stir to dissolve, and simmer to thicken slightly, about 30 minutes.

Add lavender to syrup, remove from heat and let stand about 15 minutes; reheat to just below boiling point again and let stand about 15 minutes, repeat one more time, remove from heat and stir in vanilla; allow to steep until cool. Strain into bottle. Add a clean long stem of lavender for decoration if desired. Store in fridge. Let stand a couple of days before using.

Note: Culinary lavender may also be found at http://www.penzeys.com/

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