Caldo Tlalpeño

Here’s a soup that is right up there with the ever-popular Mexican Tortilla Soup.  A friendly relative recently wanted to know if I had a recipe for Caldo Tlalpeño―apparently a popular Mexican soup made with chicken, garbanzo beans and vegetables. Huh,  I didn’t have a clue; but it  was enough to set off  flashing lights and whistling bells because garbanzos are one of my favorite beans. I cannot get enough of their hearty flavor and texture.  Give me hummus any day; I sprinkle beans onto salads and include them in entrees to replace or extend meat.    

Since I had never heard of this soup, I was completely flummoxed, and based on its build-up I was really missing the boat.  This is when the internet becomes invaluable.  Before I could get my soup pot out and heated up I was ready to head back to Mexico and try the real deal.  I quickly learned that one of the signature elements of the soup is adobo, a robust smoky sauce soaked with chipotle peppers. 

Caldo Tlalpeño originates from Tlalpan, a highly revered ecological borough in the Federal District of Mexico City.  This heavily forested region has retained much of it provincial charm and is deeply rooted in its Mesoamerican heritage.   Who knew?

After consulting several different sites and recipes, I channeled my Querétaro señora and proceeded.  I started with a rotisserie chicken, the basis of many of my stocks these days.  A note on making a delicious and easy chicken stock: I’ve learned that while the chicken is still warm and moist from the market, the meat will literally fall off the bone and within 3 or 4 minutes it is completely deboned.  

For the stock, place the heap of bones in a soup pot, cover with 6 to 8 cups water, and simmer with onion and carrot trimmings left from the pre-prepped soup ingredients.  Add a stalk of celery or about ½ tsp. celery seed, a couple sprigs of thyme, a bay leaf, and few grinds of fresh pepper.  Bring to a boil and simmer for about one hour.  Strain the stock and allow it to cool and chill until needed.  When chilled, skim off any unnecessary fat congealed on top of the stock, and proceed.   

The soup can be prepared and is ready to eat in about 45 minutes but it is as good or better the next day.  The key ingredient, the adobo, varies greatly according to maker.  The day I made mine, I noticed the sauce was quite mild―primarily a tomato puree flavored with the chipotle.  You will need to bravely taste your adobo and use your judgment.  I’ve learned that in Mexico, the soup can range from mild to extremely hot.  Err on the side of caution the first time that you try a new adobo sauce; you can always add more!  I ended up using 2 chipotle peppers, seeded and chopped plus about 3 tbsp. of the adobo sauce.  My soup was spicy hot, but not a scorcher.  The following day, it was even milder. 

As with Tortilla Soup, tableside toppings are part of the fun and add to the full flavor of Caldo Tlalpeño.  A few squirts of fresh lime will brighten it; crumbled or grated cheese such as Cotija or other queso fresco offer a lingering saltiness; and cilantro leaves provide perky citrus and herbal notes.  Enjoy with tortilla chips or crush a few and sprinkle them on top, too.   

Caldo Tlalpeño 

Inspired by Gourmet, October 1993, per Epicurious 

Ingredients 

1 rotisserie chicken deboned, 2 – 3 cups meat, cut up; use the bones for quick stock

1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 onion, peeled and cut into medium chop

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and cut into medium chop

1 tsp dried oregano

8 cup chicken stock, approximately

1 plum tomato, seeded and chopped

2 drained canned whole chipotle chilies in adobo, seeded and chopped, plus 2-3 Tbsp. sauce

2 cups cooked chick-peas, rinsed and drained

1 ear corn, husk, remove silk and cut into ¾” rounds (optional)

1 zucchini, cut into medium chop

½ tsp. each salt and pepper

Toppings:  1 lime cut into wedges, 1 cup Cotijo, Panela or other crumbled or grated cheese, 1 cup cilantro leaves, 1 avocado, cut up.  Tortilla chips. 

Instructions            

1.       In a large heavy saucepan cook the onion in the oil over moderate heat, stirring, until it is softened, stir in the garlic, carrots and oregano and cook the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the reserved broth to the vegetable mixture with the tomato and the chipotles, adobo sauce, the corn and the garbanzos; simmer the soup for 15-20 minutes. 

2.       Add the zucchini, add salt and pepper; adjust seasoning,  and simmer 10 minutes.  The soup may be prepared up to this point 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.

 To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and add toppings as desired:  lime wedges, cheese, cilantro and serve with tortilla chips.  Yield:  6 servings. 

The Answer is: Millet.

Hot on the heels of my sojourn out of the country for nearly three months, I’m back aboard the whole grain train again.  

With all the fried and rich spicy food that I devoured while in Mexico, it was time for some simple, unadulterated comfort food.  And millet was my answer. 

Now that I’ve become more familiar with millet mechanics, I’ve learned it is extremely forgiving.  When it comes to cooking time, millet tolerates a wide margin of error. Although I usually allow about 20 minutes overall, the consequences of under or over cooking it seem minimal.   

Millet is happy to drift into the background and just hang out.  Its moderately small grains and mild nuttiness make it a great foil for other more substantial textures and flavors.  

 

Here’s my version of a convenient homemade custard pudding that is soothingly suitable for many occasions.  Start with a quick and easy custard, add the cooked millet, stir in a handful of dried fruit such as apricots and golden raisins, and top it with toasted sugared almonds.   

For an easy parfait variation, omit the dried fruit and layer the pudding in stemware alternately with sweetened fresh berries.   

Millet Pudding

Ingredients

1/2 cup millet

1 ½ cup boiling water

pinch salt

2 Tbsp. cornstarch

2 cups milk

1/3 cup brown sugar

2 eggs

½ tsp. each vanilla and/or almond extract

Optional ingredients and variations:

2/3 cup dried fruit:  such as 1/3 cup golden raisins, 1/3 cup chopped dried apricots

1 cup fresh berries or other suitable fruit:  toss lightly with 1-2 tbsp sugar

½ cup slivered almonds, toasted in a dry pan with 1 tsp. sugar

Directions 

1.       To pre-cook the millet, bring salted water to a boil, stir in the millet.  Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for approximately 20 minutes.  Note:   you will have more millet than you will need. (Freeze the remainder, or try it as a hot cereal for breakfast.)

2.       For the custard, in a small pan over medium heat, whisk milk, cornstarch, sugar and eggs and bring to a simmer.  Continue to whisk until mixture begins to thicken about 3-5 minutes. 

3.       Stir in extract, 1 cup or more millet and dried fruit if using.  Let stand briefly and then pour into serving bowl or portion into individual dishes.  Top with toasted sweetened slivered almonds.  Yield:  serves 4.

Variation:  In parfait glasses, spoon layers of millet pudding alternately with sweetened fresh berries or other fruit.  If desired top with toasted nuts or additional fruit. 

Liver for Lovers: Bolognese Sauce

Warning!  This blog may not be suitable for all readers.  Please proceed only if you appreciate chicken livers.

Recently back from my ten-week stint in Mexico, I acknowledge that there are other foods in life beyond chilies, tortillas, cheese, and all the fabulous dishes celebrated there.

   

In fact, on my return I had an unexpected craving for chicken livers.  It’s not a complete surprise, and because I get a hankering for them about once a month, I tend to stock-pile a container of them in my freezer to head off this sudden biological urge. 

Yesterday, as I mulled over a nice weekend meal, what glee did I express, when behold!  To the rear of my freezer, I spot a lurking carton of chicken livers amongst my depleted pickings.  Hallelujah sister!  Joy upon joy, I had all the fundamentals for Chicken Livers in Bolognese including three fresh Roma tomatoes and from out in the garden plenty of sage and rosemary.

I make my Bolognese the traditional way:  a meat sauce simmered with tomatoes and milk.   I elected to go with ground pork instead of veal, turkey, or beef because it too, was in my freezer.  I can’t say enough about the addition of the milk to the sauce.  Fear not:  the tomatoes will not curdle the milk; along with a bit of Parmesan cheese, it tends to tenderize the meat and harmonize the sauce.  The combination of herbs and spices, plus the addition of the chicken livers, create a marriage made in heaven. Trust me on this one.

Now, you are doubly forewarned ― because this comes from an unabashed liver lover.

Chicken Livers in Bolognese Sauce

  Ingredients

  3        tbsp. olive oil -- divided

  1         lb. chicken livers

 1/3     cup flour

             salt and pepper    

  1         onion, peeled and chopped

  1         poblano or other green pepper, seeded and chopped

  1         carrot, peeled and chopped

  2         cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

  3/4    lb. ground pork, veal, turkey, or beef

  1         tsp. fresh rosemary, chopped

  1         tsp. fresh sage, chopped

  2        tbsp. red wine

  3        Roma tomatoes, chopped

  2 – 3  tbsp. tomato paste

  ½       tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

  ¼       tsp. cayenne

  ½       tsp. salt and freshly ground pepper

  ½       cup low fat or other milk

  2         tbsp.  Parmesan cheese, crumbled

  12       oz. chicken stock,  or beef

             few dashes Worcestershire sauce

             salt and pepper

  1         tsp. aged balsamic vinegar (optional)

Preparation

Clean the liver, cut into manageable pieces and pat dry; sprinkle lightly with flour, salt, and  pepper.  In a large pot heat 2 tbsp. oil and add livers.  Brown well on all sides and remove.

To the pot, heat remaining oil, add vegetables to soften and remove to separate bowl.  Add pork to the pan, break up and brown lightly adding herbs and spices.  Deglaze with red wine and loosen bits from pan; add tomatoes, tomato paste, reserved vegetables and the stock.  Add the milk, Parmesan, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper and stir to combine all. Partially cover pan and simmer about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally until sauce thickens slightly.  It will thicken as it sets.   

Add livers to pan, simmer to finish cooking them and to blend flavors, about 10 minutes; adjust seasoning.  If too tart, add a pinch of sugar or a splash of aged balsamic.  Best if allowed to set overnight to mellow flavors.  Serve over pasta, polenta, or on the side with risotto.  Yield:  4 servings.

  

Chicharrón… more or less

In Mexico, chicharrón can cause strong reactions and it is often the subject of considerable discussion, even debate. 

Stateside we are familiar with the addictive crunchy snack made from deep fried pork skins. Of course, bags of them are everywhere in Mexico, some are sprinkled with chile blends, and others can even include a personal sample of hot sauce.

However, that is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to their possibilities in Querétaro.  For the more adventurous, the skins are not fried.  They can be purchased raw at local markets and made into an array of dishes by home cooks.  Tostadas and tacos often feature this style: skins simmered for various lengths of time in a favorite sauce can result in an end product that ranges from barely cooked and squeaky pink, to well done and meltingly soft.

Part of the traditional gastronomy of Querétaro are gorditas, corn patties filled with a variety of fillings ranging from nopales, chorizo, potatoes, cheese, or of course, chicharrón.  My Sunday breakfast today featured the ever popular migajas gorditas, tortilla dough stuffed with a filling of chicharrón simmered in a savory chile sauce. 

 There are other forms to consider:  there are guacamayas, or small sandwiches called bolillo tortas that are stuffed with chicharrón and avocado, seasoned with lime and red mashed salsa of tomatoes, onions, chili peppers.  Or consider crema conchis, a soup flavored with chicharrón and chile; and of course where we would be without chicharrón sorbet?  

In Mexico City I had my first experience with tostadas de chicharrón. The crisp corn tortilla was spread with refried beans,  sheets of fried chicharrón, and finished with assorted toppings:  cabbage, onion, radish, avocado, crema, cheese, and a boat-load of salsa options. The chicharrón tends to soaks up the toppings and softens it instead of breaking into unwieldy pieces. 

Chicharrones in Salsa Verde is very popular in this area and it really requires no recipe.  The format is similar to the above tostadas.  Begin by heating about 2 cups of your favorite salsa verde; add ½ pound of chicharrón and simmer to soften, but not mushy. 

Serve with warm tortillas or tostadas spread with refried beans if desired; top with shredded cabbage or lettuce, onion, radishes, crumbled cheese, avocado, and favorite sauces.