Monday, August 8, 2011

Munch a Brunch of Egg Foo Young

Lately I’ve been living my Sundays in reverse order; that is, enjoying brunch at dinnertime.   You know, there’s something slightly decadent about ending the weekend with a lazy, relaxed spread featuring eggs and all the trimmings. 
 
Since I’m still on my lentil sprout kick, this past Sunday I faced the additional challenge of incorporating my burgeoning sprout supply into a brunch item.  One look at the odds and ends in the fridge and the brilliant idea of egg foo young emerged.

Exactly!  I’d simply replace the usual mung beans with my prize sprouts, and instead of frying up little individual pancakes, I’d create a big, fat frittata.   In no time, I had one opulent jumbo egg foo young cut into wedges and draped with a gingery Asian brown sauce.   

I’ve made a few wicked Spanish frittatas, but this crazy combination pushed all the right buttons and handily satisfied a sudden craving for Chinese take-out, too!  It’s a perfect night-time brunch― plenty of crispy veggies all bound together by eggs and humming with zingy garlic and ginger.  Of course, ham would be a nice addition in the omelet, or on the side. Try it with rice or couscous and a fresh fruit melange such as melons and strawberries. 

Egg Foo Young Frittata
Inspired by Rachel Ray’s Egg Foo Young  

Ingredients:
·         2 tsp oil, divided
·         1 onion, sliced
·         1 large clove garlic, minced
·         ginger root, 1 tsp grated
·         1 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
·         ½ cup grated carrot
·         1 heaping cup cabbage or bok choy
·         1/2 cup sliced red pepper
·         3 scallions, chopped
·         1-2 cups lentil sprouts
·         8 eggs
·         salt and pepper

Brown Sauce
·         1 cup chicken stock or 1 bouillon cube and 1 cup boiling water
·         3 Tbsp soy sauce
·         1 tsp. Kitchen Bouquet
·         1 Tbsp cornstarch
·         1 tsp hot sauce
·         ½” thick slice ginger
·         dash red pepper flakes

Directions
In a 2 cup ovenproof measurer place brown sauce ingredients and stir to combine.  Heat the sauce in the microwave until thick and bubbly about 2 minutes.  Let stand while preparing frittata.

Coat bottom of oven proof sauté pan with oil and heat over medium heat, add the onion and sauté until soft; add garlic and ginger stir until aromatic; stir in the mushrooms and sauté until softened.  Add the carrots and, cabbage and cook until softened.  Stir in the scallions and remove the vegetables from heat and cool. 

Heat oven to 375 degrees.  Have a plate handy that is larger than the width of the pan.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with a fork and add a bit of salt and pepper; stir in the mushroom mixture and the sprouts.  Wipe out the omelet pan, heat it over medium high heat and coat it lightly with oil. 
When the pan is hot, pour in the egg mixture and allow to set, lifting the edges and tilting pan so that egg liquid will run under the set eggs.

When the eggs begin to firm and bottom begins to brown remove from heat and with a spatula shift to loosen.  Cover the pan with the plate and flip the frittata onto the plate.  Quickly slip the frittata back into the pan browned side up.  Return the pan to the heat and repeat the process, cooking the bottom another couple of minutes.  The center will likely still be uncooked, place the pan in the oven for another 4 minutes to finish the frittata.  It will begin to puff up.  Cut it in wedges and serve with the brown sauce and garnish with cilantro. Serves 4

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Ricotta Made Easy. Really?

It could be said that there isn’t much new when it comes to Pasta Marinara―especially with grilled vegetables.  Possibly even more uninteresting might be a lasagna lacking the gooey layers of cheese.

Well, that’s pretty much where we begin here:  a layered lasagna-like version where grilled vegetables are front and center and cheese layers are nearly non-existent. What makes this pasta newsworthy and exceptionally tasty is the homemade lemon ricotta cheese added after baking, instead of buried way inside.  Here, superb ricotta is a creamy condiment that crowns the pasta and elevates it to spectacular heights. 

Ricotta has always meant a special trip to the grocery store before making that special cheesecake, white pizza, or lasagna.  Then, in the cheese aisle I debate which ricotta to purchase, and why?   I usually recall that it isn’t the fat free variety ― they all resemble tasteless rubber.  So, it’s probably a low fat ricotta, but which one?  Some of those are pretty bad, too.   Good grief, it’s such a crap shoot. 

It hadn’t occurred to me that it might actually be easy to whip up a homemade batch of ricotta.  Having the convenience of fresh ricotta at my finger tips would certainly take all of the guess and gamble out of the equation.  Thanks to Cooking Light magazine, their simple ricotta offers the perfect solution, and even better, their secret ingredient is none other than low fat yogurt, an item I usually have on hand. 

Of course, there are a couple of caveats:  the yield/ratio to yogurt is about 1:1; plus, a fair amount of low fat milk is required.  I have found that making about a one cup quantity is a realistic return.

A few notes on procedures.  The process is made easy by using the microwave to heat the yogurt/milk mixture.   To strain the curd and whey, lining a sieve with coffee filters will make the subsequent cheese collection and clean up straight forward.  Also, the liquid left from the straining process has good nutritional value, and is a great addition to baked breads and such. 

Flavoring the ricotta also adds a whole new dimension, too, and in this particular dish lemon zest offers the perfect finishing touch.   So here you are, a truly exceptional layered penne with marinara and grilled vegetables regally crowned with homemade Lemon Ricotta.  Naturally, we’ll start with the ricotta!

Lemon Ricotta, Quick
Courtesy Cooking Light magazine, Aug 2011

Ingredients:
·         2 cups 2% milk
·         ½ cup plain Greek yogurt, or other natural yogurt such as Nancy’s
·         2 tsp cider vinegar
·         1 ½ tsp grated lemon rind
·         1/4 tsp  coarse salt, divided

Directions
In a microwave safe 1-qt measurer combine milk, yogurt and vinegar; microwave on high for 4 minutes.  
Stir mixture to form small curds.  Strain into cheese cloth or a coffee filter lined sieve, and let stand for 5 minutes.  Discard liquid.
Scrape mixture into small bowl and stir in rind and ¼ tsp. salt.   Yield:  approx ½ cup, enough for 4 servings.  

Penne with Marinara, Grilled Vegetables and Fresh Lemon Ricotta

 Ingredients:
·         6 to 8 cups Marinara Sauce, approximate
·         1 eggplant, sliced.  Sprinkle with salt and allow to drain in colander for 20 minutes; pat dry
·         2 zucchini
·         2 yellow squash
·         3 cups whole wheat penne pasta, cooked in salted boiling water until al dente
·         ½ cup Parmesan cheese, grated
·         cooking spray for the grill
·         salt and pepper
 Lemon Ricottta and fresh mint

Directions:
Prepare the marinara sauce, or have 6-8 cups on hand.

To grill vegetables:   
Prepare the grill to medium high or until coals are red hot.
Slice the eggplant, zucchini, squash and red onion into long ½” thick slices. 
Spray the eggplant slices on one side and lay sprayed side down onto clean grill over hot white coals.  When well marked, spray top side, and turn.  Remove when browned on both sides but not cooked through.
Spray, salt and pepper the zucchini, squash and red onions on one side; grill, spray, salt and pepper top sides and turn until all are seared but not cooked thoroughly.  Remove and cool.  Cut the vegetable into bite sized chunks

To assemble:  Spray or oil a Le creuset or other oven proof 2 ½ qt dish or pot, and spread about 1 cup sauce in the bottom.  Add half of the pasta, sprinkle with 1/3 of the cheese, top with half of the vegetables, and spread half of the remaining sauce over it.  Repeat with second layer of pasta, Parmesan, vegetables, and top with the remainder of the sauce and sprinkle with rest of the cheese.  This can all be done ahead at this point and refrigerated.

To bake:  Heat the oven to 325 degrees.  Place covered dish in center of oven and bake 60 to 90 minutes or until browned and bubbly. 

To serve:  place 2 cups hot pasta into 4 shallow bowls.  Sprinkle each serving with a few grinds of coarse salt and pepper; top each with 1-2 tbsp room temperature Lemon Ricotta Cheese and 1 Tbsp mint.  Serves:  6-8

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Exotically yours

Here’s more on the previously promised Moroccan Chicken Tagine, a slow cooked collection of assorted vegetables and chicken perfumed with exotic spices, citrus, and fresh herbs.  

If you are looking for an authentic touch, consider something like this Le Souk pottery tagine, courtesy of Amazon.com. The unique sloping top creates an oven of sorts and the slow cooking process encourages the retention of moisture, thus luxuriously bathing the tagine mixture and intensifying flavors. 

Turns out, the tagine is actually another one-pot-wonder, complete with vegetables and desired meat.  Natural accompaniments are an easy couscous and of course, the earlier mentioned hot and spicy harissa.

A tagine is perfect for entertaining since it is completely prepared in advance and benefits from slow unattended cooking - consider it the pre-cursor to contemporary crock pot cooking.  If the fabulous cookware is not available for a showy presentation, le creuset or any other heavy crockery will work just fine.   The recipe that follows uses standard stove top preparation. 
 
Chicken Tagine with Couscous
Inspired by Martha Rose Shulman’s Mediterranean Light cookbook

Ingredients:
·         3 lb chicken, cut up and skinned
·         1 Tbsp olive oil
·         2 onions, sliced
·         4 cloves garlic minced or pressed
·         2 carrots, sliced
·         2 turnips, peeled and diced
·         2 stalks celery, sliced
·         1 tsp cumin
·         ½ tsp ginger
·         ½ tsp turmeric
·         1 bay leaf
·         3 cup chicken stock
·         1 tsp paprika
·         1 cup garbanzo beans
·         ¼ tsp saffron
·         2 small zucchini, sliced
·         4 Tbsp lemon juice
·         coarse salt, pepper and cayenne to taste
·         ¼ cup cilantro,  chopped
·         2 Tbsp parsley, chopped
Couscous:
·         ¾ lb couscous
·         2 cups chicken stock
Garnish:  cilantro, lemon slices, harissa (see index)

Directions: 
For tagine: heat oil in large casserole over medium heat and sauté onions and garlic until tender, 5-10 minutes.  Add carrots, turnips, and celery, sauté briefly.

Add chicken, cumin, ginger, turmeric, bay, stock and lightly salt.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer gently 45 minutes to 1 hour until chicken is tender; stir occasionally. 

Add paprika, garbanzos, saffron, zucchini and lemon juice; simmer 15 minutes until zucchini is tender but bright green.  Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and cayenne. To finish, stir in parsley and cilantro.
    
For couscous:  Pour boiling stock over the couscous, cover and let stand 10 minutes until stock is absorbed.  Fluff with a fork. 

To serve, spoon couscous onto plates and ladle chicken, vegetables and some of the broth over the couscous.  Garnish with cilantro and lemon and pass the harissa.  Serves: 6-8

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Hurrah for Harissa!

I was craving harissa the other day and had to dig out this long forgotten African recipe.   Harissa is an addictive, blazing hot chile condiment, often including cumin, caraway (important), coriander, lots of garlic, and bound together with olive oil, much like a pesto.

This particular sauce was one of the stars of an amazing African Dinner I created several years ago for Dinner Classics, an international cooking class series.  The evening featured an African Art collection showcased by a local art gallery, and pairings of fantastic wines – African and otherwise. 

It was an ambitious undertaking but well worth the effort, since at that time African cuisine was fairly unfamiliar to most.  I hope the file is buried away somewhere and not lost, but I recall one of the appetizers was a popular street food, samosa,  fried pastry stuffed with a mixture of cooked potatoes, onions, peas, coriander, lentils or a meat item such as chicken, lamb or beef.   There was doro wat, a fabulously spicy Ethiopian chicken stew often eaten out of hand with a large thin sourdough pancake style bread called injera bread; and there was the wonderful South African curry finished with a custard topping, bobotie.  (Note to self:  find that file!)

However, in the interest of time this version of harissa comes from the always reliable Mediterranean Light cookbook, by Martha Rose Shulman.  It’s really delicious.  Did I say that yet?

Actually, I’ve been enjoying it with Chicken Tagine and Couscous, another blast from the past.  Tagines are so popular in Morocco that they actually have their own pot created just for that purpose - as does couscous.  If I can get my act together, I’ll at least share that with you soon!

In the interim this sauce is good on literally anything that benefits from a spicy kick – from egg foo young to stuffed cabbage!  No kidding.

Harissa 
Inspired by Martha Rose Shulman’s Mediterranean Light cookbook

·         20 dried hot red chile peppers
·         1 tsp caraway seed
·         ½ tsp cumin seed
·         1 tsp coriander seed
·         3 cloves garlic, peeled and mashed
·         ½ tsp salt
·         approximately 1 cup boiling water
·         3 Tbsp olive oil

Directions:
Place chile peppers in a small bowl and pour boiling water to cover over them; let them soak approximately 45 minutes.  Drain them and reserve 1-2 Tbsp water; de-stem and seed, if desired.

Meanwhile, grind the spices and set aside.

Place the chile peppers in blender or food processor, add 1-2 Tbsp. of  the water and puree; add the spice mixture, garlic, salt, and puree. Slowly add approximately 2 Tbsp. olive oil to form thick sauce.

Transfer to a bowl or storage container.  Cover with remaining olive oil and seal tightly.  Yield: @ 1/3 cup.

Monday, July 18, 2011

To Halve or Halve Not

It took a bumper crop or two of my own cherry tomatoes before I realized the full extent of their versatility.  That is, after I acquired a little restraint and learned to resist the unwieldy urge of eating them fresh off the vine. 

Here’s a very handy idea, so easy and adaptable that it is hardly a recipe.  (Of course, there as so many varieties of these sweet  babies, any of them will work just fine).   I refer to this concept simply as Marinated Cherry Tomatoes, but beyond that there are plenty of ways to proceed depending on time, need and preference:  such as to halve, or halve not; or to cook, or to go raw.

One lovely compromise is to heat the marinade and pour it over the tomatoes.  This is truly delicious with a little aged balsamic vinegar, truffle oil, and a couple of fresh herbs.  If the tomatoes are whole and left to stand and marinate, the skins will ultimately crack and burst.  

In the previous entry which includes Lentils and Kale, the marinated tomatoes are shown as a relish, an added topping.  The zinginess of the vinegar provides a bit of punch and color that brightens this hearty dish.

An old favorite is to serve the marinated tomatoes as a topping for bruschetta or crostini.  Then consider whether to serve them straight up, as is, or to broil them topped with a melting cheese, such as provolone or chevre. 

There’s always the magically appearing salad where the marinated tomatoes supply an utterly effortless all-in-one salad complement.  They provide the necessary dressing and also star atop a lovely melange of fresh greens and herbs.  When I make these ahead, I bring the tomatoes to room temperature before serving, and their sweetness really shines.


Marinated Baby Tomatoes

Ingredients:
·         1 tbsp. olive oil
·         2 cloves garlic flattened and sliced into slivers
·         1 tsp. fresh herbs such as thyme, rosemary and or savory
·         ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes or more, or coarse ground pepper
·         ½ tsp. coarse salt
·         1 basket or more baby tomatoes, halved or not
·         ¼ cup sherry vinegar, balsamic or vinegar of choice
·         1-2 green onions, chopped

Directions
1.       In small sauté pan heat olive oil over low/moderate heat and add the garlic and herbs.  Allow the flavors to infuse the oil, 3- 5 minutes.
 
2.       Add the tomatoes and toss to combine; add the vinegar and bring to gentle simmer, cook 2-3 minutes.  Remove from heat and add the green onions.  Serves 6 approximately.

Sunday, July 17, 2011

My Plate

I’m embarrassed to admit that I missed the memo from the US government.  The one saying they had eliminated the Food Pyramid and were replacing it with MyPlate. Apparently the old one was too complicated.   

According to Michelle Obama, “When mom or dad comes home from a long day of work, we’re already asked to be a chef, a referee, a cleaning crew. So it’s tough to be a nutritionist, too. But we do have time to take a look at our kids’ plates. As long as they’re half full of fruits and vegetables, and paired with lean proteins, whole grains and low-fat dairy, we’re golden. That’s how easy it is.”

Whatever it takes.  The new plate graphic is a cool idea, and it’s probably more relevant when it comes to eating, but does it really address the larger problem?   Yes, sensible food choices are critical – but what about those enormous food portions and the size of the plate?  And, what about those times when there is no plate?  Does that count? 

America’s fascination with an easy taco, a quick burger, or any other overly processed foods is a clear indicator that we are governed by our impulses.  We are looking for a fast fix to fill that empty void.  Sadly, that need is not long satisfied by plowing through a half-pounder, a side of fries, and washing it down with a Big Gulp.

Admittedly, my eating habits have gotten out of hand too, so I’m taking this summer to re-visit them and get a grip.  For the past couple of years or so, my excuse has been that I’m adjusting to a cooler climate and I’ve naturally gravitated to eating heavier meals.  Also, with longer days away from home, I’ve rationalized quick energy snacks and the need for more “brain food.”  Wow, how handy for the trail mix, the peanut butter, and perhaps some more of that chocolate for good measure. 

Which brings me back to the My Pyramid Tracker, likely now obsolete and incorporated in the new MyPlate site.  I’ve used this site for monitoring daily intake and usage. It has improved over the past year and  seems to have many of the earlier kinks worked out for tracking meals, searching for nutritional values, sorting out food requirements and much more.   Another site worth checking out for their exercise component is My Fitness Pal, I use their Recipe section to enter personal recipes for nutritional analysis breakdown.   

With my new eating regimen, I’ve noticed that the focus on whole grains, beans and pulses really does work.  I find I am not hungry as often and my energy stays at a higher more consistent level.  Still, this is all pretty new to me, so I’m spending more time in the advance prep stage.  But once prepared, I don’t mind having a repeat of the same dish, and my freezer is filling up nicely with meals for later.  Another plus beyond feeling better, is that a visit to the bulk food section of my market is far less expensive than a walk down the meat aisle. 

Here’s a lentil dish I especially enjoyed in the early stages of my Meat Reduction Program.  At the time, the addition of a limited amount of grilled turkey Polish sausage seemed like a big enough sacrifice.  As time has gone on, and I’ve increased the pulses, whole grains and beans, I’ve noticed my need for meat has greatly diminished. But, then again, there's nothing like a great burger...

Lentils, Kale and Sausage 
Inspired by EatingWell magazine

Ingredients:
·         1 tbsp. olive oil, divided
·         12 oz. precooked turkey sausage, such as kielbasa
·         1 large onion
·         2-3 cloves garlic
·         ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
·         ½ tsp. thyme
·         1 bay leaf
·         2 tbsp. celery leaves (from celery below)
·         1 carrot, peeled, chopped
·         1 cup green lentils, rinsed
·         2 stalks celery
·         1 poblano pepper, seeded and chopped
·         5 cups chicken stock, or part water/bouillon
·         12 cups kale, cleaned, stripped from stalk and chopped
·         ½ tsp. salt and pepper each

Directions
1.       Heat a deep pot over medium heat, coat with about 2 tsp. olive oil and brown the sausage on all side.  Remove the sausage and let cool.
2.       Add the remaining oil and onion to the pot to soften, then add the garlic and toss until aromatic.  Add the red pepper and spices, then the celery leaves, carrot, and pepper.  Deglaze the pot with stock, and bring all to a simmer.
3.       Add the lentils and simmer partially covered for 30-40 minutes, or until nearly tender.   Stir in the kale and simmer 10-15 minutes longer.  Taste for seasoning and top with sliced sausage.  Serves 6. 

Delicious topped with Baby Tomatoes marinated in Sherry Vinegar. 

Friday, June 24, 2011

Ratatouille Relevance

The sun finally came out of hiding this past week. It warmed into the 80’s, a heart-stopping heat wave that suggested our eternal winter was finally over. (Be still, my heart!)

Meanwhile, the rest of the US swelters, or is underwater with flooding, so I can’t complain about our conditions. Still, I feel as if I have been living in a dark tunnel for the past several months and am blinded by the light. What I know, is that the sun rejuvenates me and turns my life up several notches. I’m happier and life’s simplest pleasures take on new meaning.

And so it was, when I noticed the shiny purple orbs at the market recently. Likely, I have brushed up against eggplant this season, but merely skipped over them, unimpressed and undaunted. Suddenly it was as if a spotlight beamed down upon them, showcasing a chorus of come-hither halos. A must-have event.

Later, I dug out my old ratatouille recipe and dusted off the grill. Clearly, the sun had cast its spell on me. Just the process of slicing and dicing the season’s vegetables was enough to make me smile. A quick sear on the grill was all that was needed to infuse them with a slight smokiness and by-pass the tedious olive oil sauté process. Since there was still plenty of fire on the coals I dawdled over grilling a few chicken breasts – no hurry to return indoors.

Back in the kitchen with the cooled veggies and a handful of snipped garden herbs, I layered the veggies into a heavy pot. A gentle simmer on the back of the stove was all it took to create magic. The results: a transformation from the jumble of summer vegetables into a velvety mélange, an elegant reminder of all that is possible. If I pay attention.


Grilled Ratatouille
A great summer accompaniment to grilled meats or fish. The preliminary grilling precooks the veggies and adds a smoky dimension. For a make ahead addition, consider a tangy tabouli with bulgur wheat. Inspired by Judy Zeidler's The Gourmet Jewish Cook.

1 medium eggplant, ¾” slices
2 medium zucchini, ½” lengthwise, thick slices
½ red onion, ½” thick round slices
1 whole red pepper
1 whole green pepper, preferably poblano
cooking spray
3-4 medium tomatoes, medium dice
2 tbsp. olive oil, divided
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tbsp. mixed herbs: thyme, savory, marjoram, chop
coarse salt and pepper
Tabasco to taste

Spray the eggplant on both sides and place the slices on a very hot grill.  Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and turn when well marked.  Proceed in same fashion with the zucchini, peppers, and onion.  Remove each when marked on both sides; place the peppers in a plastic bag and seal to allow skins to loosen.  Allow the vegetables to cool and cut into square chunks. Seed, peel the peppers and do the same.

In a heavy pot over medium heat, add about 2 tsp. olive oil and half of the garlic, cooking until it is fragrant but not brown.  Remove the pot from heat and add about  1/3 of the tomatoes and toss lightly.  Layer half of the onions on top and sprinkle a little of the mixed herbs along with a bit of salt and pepper.  Layer in half of each the eggplant, zucchini, the peppers, and drizzle on a bit of olive oil and sprinkle with more herbs. Add another layer of tomatoes, onions, and then layer the other veggies.  Sprinkle with more herbs, and finish with the last of the tomatoes, a bit more salt and pepper, and drizzle the top with a bit more olive oil.

Return the pot to medium heat and when it comes to a low boil, reduce the heat to low.  Cover well and lightly simmer.  After 10 minutes, gently toss the mixture once or twice and cover.  Repeat every 10 minutes or so, for a total of about 40 minutes.  Additional liquid will have formed.  Remove the lid, add a few shakes of Tabasco and increase the heat to moderate. Bring to a low simmer and reduce the liquid, another 10-15 minutes.  The veggies should still hold their shape and be identifiable, but they will be silky and the flavors will meld together.  Taste for seasoning and serve hot, room temperature, or cold.

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