Excerpts From the Gardener's Notebook

"It appears we have turned the corner on a very long winter and finally, spring is more evident with each warming day..."

Returnees

The shade loving Foamflower has rallied from a long winter retreat; it has spread out and is filling an essential corner quite nicely this year! 

 

Wildflowers
First volunteers: Vibrant Columbine has popped up literally overnight and is a massive purple haze! 

Rhodondenrons are preparing for a vast showing very shortly...  

Early Edibles

First-of- the-season tomato plant is in the ground: Stupice, another unique find from the Springfield Farmers’ Market. Due date: 52 days and counting. Be still, my heart! Can this be true?
 

"Extremely early potato-leaf Czech heirloom that bears abundant very sweet, flavorful 2 to 3” deep red fruit. A 1988 comparative tasting in the San Francisco Bay area gave it first place for its wonderful sweet/acid, tomatoey flavor and production."

 

Herbs and Such

Outcropping of nearly invasive Greek Oregano and a tiny spring Strawberry is in bloom!

Weekly Forecast
"Cooling temperatures with intermittent rain. Sigh. What happened to'April showers bring May flowers'?"

Market Memory Makers

This past Friday was the beginning of a new season for our Springfield Farmers’ Market and I was one among many caught in a blur of anticipation and excitement.  Early apprehensions over the new shift to an afternoon/evening venue were soon forgotten amidst a steady stream of enthusiastic supporters.

From my perspective, it was all good.  There was a sense of relaxed, casual enjoyment and folks were happy to linger longer and fully enjoy all that the market had to offer. 

As the sun shifted to the west the market hummed with activities for the kids, plentiful exchanges of food and drink, baked goods, fresh produce as well as a seasonal assortment of tiny starts and plants for the home gardeners.  Plus, it was a chance to follow the latest market buzz and chat up the hard working farmers, growers, and producers - even place pre-orders with a local fishmonger promising fresh salmon next week.

One highlight was my first fresh horchata this side of Mexico. It was a treat to sip this cool, refreshing drink and mingle with friends while foot-tapping music floated above the market. It reminded me of similar sweet occasions at bustling mercardos and tiendas in Mexico.

Horchata is typically made with rice pressed or blended into a milky form with water. It is flavored with cinnamon, vanilla, and sweetened with sugar - milk, fresh fruit, or nuts are sometimes included.  

Horchata
1 stick cinnamon (or about 1/2 tsp. powdered)
2/3 cup sugar
1 1/4 cups long grained white rice, uncooked
5 cups water
1 teaspoons vanilla

In a blender, break up cinnamon and pulverize it with sugar. Add the rice and blend until a fine powder.

Slowly add about 3 cups of water to blender and puree; add vanilla, remaining water and combine well.

Pour into a storage container and refrigerate for at least 5 hours, or overnight.  The following day, strain into pitcher. Adjust flavors, add milk if desired. Serve over ice. Serves 4 ~~

Simply Fascinating

I am a big fan of plain, unadulterated yogurt. In fact, I keep a large container of it in the fridge and often substitute a portion of yogurt in lieu of high fat ingredients in sauces requiring sour cream, butter or mayonnaise – its lovely tang often adds a refreshing dimension.  I use it regularly in baking for the same reasons  - plus it improves texture enormously.   

It just so happens that we have one of the best yogurts I have found right here in my own backyard. I love Nancy’s Yogurt beyond such elementary issues as great flavor and food value - it is fermented with natural probiotics (live organisms, not quick-fix chemicals).  What I really appreciate about Nancy’s is its ability to maintain a lovely thickness that does not break down as readily as other supermarket varieties.

Of course, I prefer supporting local producers, and since the creamery is located in Springfield, nothing could make me happier. What I didn’t know is the fascinating bit of colorful Oregon history behind Nancy’s Yogurt.

The Springfield Creamery was started in 1960 by a young hard working couple, Chuck and Sue Kesey, not so co-incidentally the brother of another local legend, Ken Kesey. The business shifted when an employee named Nancy shared her family’s yogurt making techniques.

Although customers responded and demand for Nancy’s yogurt grew, it was slow going. In 1972, a bit of promotional wizardry in the form of a Grateful Dead benefit concert attended by 20,000 devotees saved Nancy’s Yogurt from near extinction. The movie, Sunshine Daydream is a record of this seismic event. 

Back in the black again, Nancy’s Yogurt flourished with the help of a very loyal clientele. More help was on the way though, when U of O graduate Gilbert Rosborne and his partner, a young Huey Lewis, the music maker, offered to market the yogurt to the San Francisco bay area. Fascinating, right?

With the growing demand, the business successfully expanded through the 80’s. In the mid 90’s a devastating fire consumed much of the creamery. As you now would suspect, loyal friends and customers rallied and within weeks the business was back in business. Amazingly after 50 years, Nancy’s Yogurt continues to thrive - further affirmation on the amazing powers of yogurt. Simply fascinating.

The following salad seems appropriate  for today, especially if you are looking for a day of quiet reflection or cleansing...

Detoxicating Salad
From Grayshott Hall Health Centre, near Hindhead, Surrey, England,  courtesy A World of Salads by Rosalie Swedlin

3 medium carrots, scrubbed
3  medium apples, scrubbed
3 stalks celery
1 handful raisins
1/2 cucumber, washed
1 small green pepper
2 pears
1 orange, or 1/2 grapefruit
1 cup yogurt, with lemon juice, no sweetening, optional

In the morning, chop all ingredients into a covered container and shake to combine. This should make enough for 1 day of 3 equal meals. Note: 1 cup of yogurt flavored with lemon juice, total can be consumed with the salad.

Begin your fast day with 1 glass hot water, lemon juice optional; consume between meals throughout the day as desired. 3 cups tea, total, may be substituted.

Tabletop Garden

In the darkest days of this past winter when it was endlessly cold and rainy I decided I needed a project to bring me out of the creeping dreary doldrums. I recalled my mother must have felt the same way at times too, because when I was a teenager we regularly had a mini-indoor garden. We were big on terrariums – my mother preferred a giant brandy snifter in which she would artfully arrange her pint-sized plants. We were into the bonsai movement for a while, too – then she would patiently clip and mold tiny trees into elegant works of art.

It took a full week to locate and gather up all the necessary elements for my planned terrarium – which, in itself was an injection of pure entertainment. In the clearance aisle at TJ Maxx a tall hand blown speckled vase caught my eye.

One rainy afternoon looking for herb candidates I stopped by Gray’s, my local nursery. Too early, I was told, and instead was ushered to their dwindling indoor plant section where I prodded and debated until I narrowed it to three: a curly grass that apparently loves moisture, a charming purple-tinged shamrock plant, and a small sturdy fern. I even found a bag of activated charcoal to keep the soil sweet.

Back at home, I rooted through my arts and crafts box and came up with a bag of colorful glass baubles that would work for drainage on the bottom - instead of pebbles. Outside in my storage locker I discovered an old bag of potting soil and set it aside, too.

By the following weekend I was ready to assemble my terrarium. In short order I had my hands deep in the soft, moist dirt and was puttering and fussing - and before I knew it, I felt my spirits shift. I hummed as I gently nestled my charges into their new digs. In no time I had created my own tiny serenity garden – pretty enough to deserve a place of honor in my kitchen.

Through those long dark winter days my terrarium became a constant source of revelation and entertainment. There were times I would move it about the house – and wherever it landed it graced the space with added life and color. Mostly though, my winter garden has stayed in the kitchen - where it shoots out brilliant flashes of green that sparkle and dance as the light shifts from drab and dull to crisp and bright.

Gingersnaps meet Pork

Easter week I decided I would create a nice meal incorporating pork and cabbage. That certainly left a universe of options, so I’m not quite sure how I ended up fiddling with Sauerbraten.   I confess, I don’t believe I  had ever tasted it before either. 

With than in mind, I commence from a place of curiosity - rather than familiarity.  I suspect the reason I had never made Sauerbraten is because of the gingersnap issue. I’ve always liked the idea of adding this yummy cookie as a final fillip to the dish, but of course that would require having some on hand. Alas, this just happened to be the serendipitous situation, when I discovered a few stragglers in the freezer - left from the holidays.

Granted, Sauerbraten is traditionally made from a tough cut of beef or game allowed to sit in a flavorful marinade for days before cooking to tenderize and tame it; in the olden times it would have likely acted as a preserving agent, as well. I began with a tender and lean top boneless pork loin roast and decided to take a little creative license by searing it first, then simmering it in its marinade until tender… with a final sojourn in the refrigerator. I’m far happier accomplishing as much work as possible up front – and not waiting until crunch time.

The roast marinates in the fridge a day or so with an occasional turn to evenly absorb flavors. It is returned to the stove for a simple re-heat and kept warm while the sauce is prepared with the lovely waiting gingersnaps. It sounds crazy, but it works deliciously.

By this time, the sauce has developed some serious complexity compounded by the beautiful balance of spicy sweetness from those devilish gingersnaps against the earthy tartness of the marinade.  Dribble this noble sauce over the amazing sliced meat; offer Braised Cabbage with Juniper Berries, some Buttered Noodles with Sautéed Mushrooms, and you’ll understand why this is considered one of the world’s most famous dishes.

Sauerbraten
(loosely adapted from Bobby Flay, Food Network)

2 tablespoons canola oil
3 pounds top boneless pork loin roast, (or 3-4 lb. boned and rolled beef rump roast)
salt and pepper

Marinade
1 medium onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and sliced thin
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 1/2 cups water
6 whole cloves, and same # juniper berries, opt.
8 juniper berries (optional)
8 black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds, or whole grained mustard
1/2 tsp. thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons flour
6 - 2" gingersnaps, finely crushed with rolling pin
2 tablespoons honey, or to taste

Braised Cabbage
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large yellow onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced
2 pounds red or green cabbage, cored and shredded
1/2 cup reserved cooking liquid from sauerbraten
1/2 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1 Tablespoons juniper berries
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Noodles with Mushrooms
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 ounces portabella mushrooms, sliced
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons chives or green onions
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound egg noodles, cooked al dente

Heat the 2 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven. Season the roast with salt and pepper and sear 2-3 minutes on each side. Remove the roast.

To the pot, add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic and toss briefly. Add the vinegars, water, and seasonings through thyme, salt and pepper. Return the meat and allow to simmer 2-3 hours, turning every hour hour, until it is tender but not falling apart. Place the meat in a storage container. Allow the marinade to cool, strain it and pour over the roast. Refrigerate 1-3 days, turn occasionally to allow marinade to infuse entire cut.

To finish, slowly reheat roast in marinade, when hot carefully remove meat to a platter and keep warm.

To make the sauce: In a saucepan, heat butter and add flour to make a roux. Set aside approximately 1/2 cup marinade for the braised cabbage. Add the remaining liquid to the pan to create a thick gravy-like sauce. Add the crumbled gingersnaps, adjust with honey to taste, salt and pepper as needed.

Carve the roast, serve topped with some of the sauce, along with Braised Cabbage and Noodles with Mushrooms. Serves 6-8.

Braised Cabbage:  Heat butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until soft. Add the cabbage, cooking liquid, stock, the juniper berries, and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Cover and cook until the cabbage is wilted, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Noodles with Mushrooms:  Saute the mushrooms in butter and garlic, salt and pepper and cook to release juices, add the green onions. Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain well, toss with the mushrooms, and adjust seasoning.

Easter Eggs

My friend Becky raises chickens and literally swells with pride when she shares her eggs with me.  And for heaven’s sakes, why not? They are gorgeous. Their thick shells vary in shades from pale tan to brown, some are speckled – each is unique and unlike the next. They are nature’s original edible art.

Becky's organic eggs are a reminder of what  real eggs should taste like – and are so delicious that these days I am savoring them in their simplest forms.

For example, I’m back to poached eggs again. I love to break them into a small dish and gently slip them into simmering water, then wait and watch as their brilliant orange yolks are miraculously transformed into delicate pink orbs and their whites gather about them in firm opaque ovals. Utterly amazing.

These beauties require no special fussing, only a quick removal with my favorite slotted spoon and onto waiting toast. It doesn’t get any better than that.  Thanks Becky!

All Steamed Up

I’ve been pretty busy with other projects lately, but St. Paddy’s Day was just enough incentive to get me back into the kitchen. In honor of the big day, I wanted to come up with a more traditional dessert that was not another green concoction. Thus began the adventure of the Pear and Ginger Steamed Pudding.

Of course, steamed puddings have been around for centuries, but I’ve never attempted to make my own. The whole process seemed just a bit too daunting – and what about all that special equipment and ingredients like suet? I soon learned that many of the Irish versions include barley, oats, bread crumbs and such - a tad over-the-top. Let’s face it, there’s nothing light about steamed pudding, anyway. As my model, I finally settled on a tempting British Steamed Caramelised Apple Pudding that I found at the British Good Food Channel site http://uktv.co.uk/food/recipe/aid/598638.

I was duly warned when I read that it is classed as Intermediate and it takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes to prepare (or longer). I was also a bit put off by the total amount of cream, butter, and sugar required; but the good news is that this particular recipe uses far less than many, and I trimmed where possible. Besides, it’s St. Patrick’s Day (which is slowly getting lost in translation). 

This lovely begins with the preparation of a fairly straight forward butterscotch sauce. Instead of the suggested heavy cream, I opt for low fat condensed milk conveniently sitting on my pantry shelf - and it works quite nicely. With that done, we move on to a quick sauté of the apples (or pears, or other fruit) in butter. Then you are ready to get down to some serious work.

First, understand that pudding is a loose term used for desserts of many descriptions, and not just the creamy version familiar to most Americans. The basis of these steamed puddings frequently includes a sponge, which refers to the addition of a sponge cake batter of sorts. But wait, before actually preparing the sponge batter, it’s best to gather up your equipment:

•  Mold (baking pan, or approx. 2 qt. ovenproof bowl)
•  Parchment paper and or foil – and some butcher twine
•  A large steamer pan or a pot with a lid large enough to hold the mold plus a trivet or rack to elevate it
•  Kettle of boiling water

The sponge batter is pretty straight forward:  just remember to beat the butter until light, slowly add the sugar, and whip it well. The secret to creating a light and buoyant sponge cake is to add the beaten eggs very slowly. Fold in the dry ingredients and you are almost there. Carefully arrange the fruit in the buttered mold and pour the batter on top of the fruit.

The parchment paper layered over the baking dish protects the pudding from excess water damage;  if you remember how to fold and seal parchment from previous baking adventures you are set; if not, forget it and use 2 layers of foil secured with string. Now, lower the mold into the steamer and onto the trivet. Pour boiling water around it and half way up the sides of the mold. Cover and simmer for approximataely 2 hours, occasionally checking the water level and topping if off as needed.

Since you will have a neatly wrapped package on your hands, be sure and cook your pudding for at least 1 hour and 45 minutes, or 2 hours if in doubt. The idea of discovering that your pudding is not fully cooked after removing the parchment and foil is beyond contemplation.

  

Of course, in the British or Irish tradition, one would serve this beauty warm with a bit more butterscotch sauce and a dousing of heavy cream. I opt for a simple and convenient vanilla caramel-laced ice cream and rejoice. The butterscotch and ginger flavored pears provide the perfect foil for the incredibly moist, appealing sponge lingering beneath. All of this, set off with a dabble of ice cream tells me it is well worth the work.

Pear and Ginger Steamed Pudding
Inspired by Galton Blackiston 's Caramelised Apple Pudding
Butterscotch Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
3/4 cup light brown sugar
3/4 cup cream, or low fat condensed mik
1 teaspoon vanilla
Sponge:
1/2 cup butter, divided/ reserve a bit for buttering the mold
3 large pears or apples, peel, core, slice
2 teaspoons fresh ginger, grated
2/3 cup light brown sugar (not packed)
3 eggs, beaten
2/3 cup flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

Prepare the Butterscotch Sauce: In small saucepan, melt 1 Tbsp. butter and 3/4 sugar over medium heat until the mixture begins to turn amber and caramelizes. Lower the heat, carefully slowly stir in the cream or condensed milk, and the vanilla. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Saute the pears: In hot pan, gently saute the sliced fruit quickly in about 1 Tbsp butter, add the ginger and cook until they soften and begin to caramelize. Set aside to cool slightly.

For the sponge: Beat the remaining butter until light; slowly add the sugar. Add the beaten eggs very slowly, beating until light and creamy. Sift the dry ingredients and fold in.

Butter the bowl or mold and carefully arrange the fruit partially up the sides of the mold, arranging the remaining fruit on the bottom to fill in. Drizzle about 1/2 of the butterscotch sauce over the fruit. Pour the sponge batter over the fruit, smoothing the top evenly.

Cover the mold first with pleated sheet of baking parchment, and then with a sheet of foil. Securely fasten the sheets to the rim of the mold with string.

In a large pot suitable to hold the mold, place it on a trivet or steamer, and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides. Cover with a lid and steam for 1hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours, until skewer inserted in center comes out clean. Make sure the pan does not boil dry, topping off with more boiling water as needed.

Turn the pudding out onto a plate and serve with a generous drizzle of the butterscotch sauce. Serve warm with custard sauce, whipped cream or ice cream. Serves 4-6 ~~

Note: After accomplishing all of this, I later came across the idea of using a crock pot. What an amazing use of technology! Include a small trivet and cook on high for 2-3 hours.