Sunday, October 11, 2009

A Picked Passel of Peppers

For the past week or so I have been volunteering at our community GrassRoots Garden. Merry, the wonder woman in charge there encourages young and old to come, visit, work, or simply savor whatever the garden offers up that day.

The 2 ½ acre garden started about 18 years ago as a partnership between the Master Gardeners, Food for Lane County, and our local St. Thomas Episcopal Church. Since then, it has become a glorious setting that teaches earth-friendly gardening and self-sufficiency. Over time the garden has evolved and taken on its own personality: it’s inviting, energizing, and healing.

It’s harvest time, and there’s heightened activity to bring in the crops before the rain and frost arrives. I’ve been assigned to pulling up tomato plants and cages – it’s back breaking work, but totally rewarding. On Friday, I returned in time to join the volunteers for lunch. The food team that day had prepared a big pot of wheat pasta tossed with a freshly cooked tomato sauce, loaded with peppers, onion, and garlic. As we sat under the grape arbor sheltered from the afternoon sun, there was a relaxed calm. For many, this is regarded as a safe place, a sanctuary, and retreat from life’s hardships and challenges.

That day I met a woman 3 months pregnant with twins, a severely handicapped man, a 7’ professional basketball player, several teenagers, an elderly man and his dog, and a couple of women that had arrived by bus from across town. We all chatted as we worked and enjoyed the coolness of the fall afternoon.

I left the garden with a big bag of mixed peppers. On the drive home I suddenly felt emboldened by my afternoon experience--and moved to face one of my biggest fears: canning. 

I’m not exactly sure why I have avoided canning all these years; perhaps I don’t completely trust my ability to safely pull this off. Although I have no problems eating commercial products, I’m a bit skeptical of the home canning process; things like salmonella and botulism concern me, a lot. My daughter has also been bit by the canning bug this year, and has shared her successes with me; with her added encouragement I prepared for a pickled pepper canning challenge.

Armed with my daughter’s advice and my trusty standby, Helen Witty’s Fancy Pantry, I proceeded. Their ideas were surprisingly similar, so I felt I was on fairly solid ground. The peppers are not peeled or cooked ahead; they are packed into jars, covered with an easy brine and seasonings, and processed in a hot water bath. How simple is that?

According to Helen they should stand a couple of weeks before sampling, so I am unable to make any further pronouncements at this time. Stay tuned!

Pickled Peppers
Inspired by Helen Witty’s Fancy Pantry

2 1/2 pounds small peppers, red, orange, yellow, washed, seeded cut into 1/8s or wide strips
7 1/2 cups water
1 1/2 tablespoons sea salt
2 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
4 cloves garlic, peel, sliced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
8 dried red peppers
2 tablespoons olive oil

Wash, rinse and drain eight 1 pint canning jars, lids and bands.
Pack sliced peppers into jars, add a few slices of garlic, a sprinkling of oregano, 1 chile pepper to each jar.

Combine the water, vinegar, salt and bring it to a boil, stir to dissolve the salt. Pour the hot liquid over the peppers leaving approx. 1/2" headspace, and drizzle each with approximately 1 tsp. olive oil.

Top with lids and bands and process jars in boiling water bath for 20 minutes, or according to manufacturers directions. Remove from heat and let stand uncovered for 5 minutes, remove to baking sheet and cool undisturbed for about 12 hours. Tighten the lids and allow to stand for 2 weeks or longer. ~~

Monday, October 5, 2009

Lost and Found: Hollywood Diet Bread

Recently during a conversation with my daughter I was teasing her about being partially made of Hollywood Diet Bread. While I was pregnant back in the 60’s, my body experienced a complete reversal, and tragically I could not bear to be around food. The idea of it, let alone the smell of it -- made me miserably sick. I was one of those rare pregnant women, who instead of gaining too much, lost weight.

Fortunately, early on I discovered that two slices of toasted Hollywood Diet Bread, along with a couple of soft boiled eggs would soothe my queasy stomach and perk me right up--it was just about all I could keep down! It became quite the joke-- even a pregnant woman could loose weight on Hollywood Diet Bread! Nevertheless, I loved being pregnant and I associate this bread with fond memories. Since it holds a very special place in my heart I’ve always liked having a loaf salted away in the freezer--for those moments of nostalgia. Sadly, over the years it has become increasingly difficult to find.

When I mentioned this to my daughter, she suggested that I should try making my own. Huh, what concept. For those who may have missed this venerable institution, Hollywood Diet Bread was hailed for having only 46 calories per slice—plus it contained carrots, sea kelp, cabbage, and other mysterious vegetables and healthful ingredients. In spite of all these additions, it had a light texture, was mild tasting and surprisingly satisfying. Mostly, I remember one key element: the characteristic sesame seeds on top.

With that in mind, I went to work on this seriously daunting challenge, and I’m pleased to report my first results in developing an updated version of this beloved bread. Based on my incredibly high expectations, the loaf turned out amazing well! The texture and crumb are that of a fine sandwich loaf, the flavor is mild, well balanced with a slight sweet nuttiness from the wheat and sesame seeds. I’m still a bit puzzled by the color which is caramel with a faint tinge of green. Some might find this questionable, and it could be adjusted by deleting the kale, but since I like everything else about it, why mess with a good thing? I suspect the color of the loaf will be affected by the type and size of vegetables included. Note that I used one medium plum tomato; a larger one may make all the difference… or maybe a beet…

What I do know, is that I feel like an old best friend is back--with a face lift! I think I’ll try another piece...

Final wrap: This is a very easy loaf to make since it is a no-knead dough that beats about 7 minutes in the mixer. The vegetables need to be cooked and pureed, which is key to the success of this bread. For speed, I used the microwave and was done in a flash. A quick pulse in the blender with the rest of the liquids and you are ready to go.


Harvest Wheat BreadMy version of “Hollywood Diet Bread"
1 envelope yeast, rapid rising
1/4 cup warm water
1 medium carrot, chopped
1 medium plum tomato, chopped
5 medium kale leaves, or comparable spinach, or other green leaf, chop
1/2 stick celery, chopped with leaves if available
1 tablespoon parsley, or other mild herb
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 egg, divided (save about 1 Tbsp. egg white for glaze)
1/2 cup milk, or other liquid
1 1/2 cups wheat flour
1 1/2 cups enriched white
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sesame seeds

In mixing bowl, sprinkle yeast on top of water and let stand about 7 minutes until it begins to bubble. Spray a 9x5" loaf pan.

Microwave the carrot and tomato until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add kale, celery, parsley and sugar and microwave until kale is wilted, another 2 minutes. Allow to cool briefly and puree the vegetable mixture in blender along with oil, egg and milk. There should be about 1 2/3 cup of this thick mixture.

In mixing bowl, add the flours, salt and vegetable mixture to the active yeast. Combine all and beat for about 7 minutes until it forms a shaggy dough. Scrap into loaf pan and smooth evenly with floured fingers if necessary. Cover with plastic wrap, sprayed; let stand until it reaches the top of the pan, about 1 hour. Meanwhile preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Make a glaze with reserved egg white and about 2 tsp. water. Brush the top of the loaf with the glaze and sprinkle evenly with sesame seeds. Bake about 45 minutes until it is nicely browned and has pulled away from the pan. Remove from pan and cool on rack. Makes 1 loaf ~~

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Lavender Highlights

The lovely tall arched blossom wands of my lavender plants have been winking and waving at me lately with their most seductive “come hither” look. It’s their last hurrah of the season and they want to be memorialized, not left high and dry.

In that spirit, I went online and visited a few of my fellow food writers and bloggers to see what they were doing with lavender. Over at http://www.seriouseats.com/, an Italian Lavender Honey Spice Cake caught my attention; I’ve always been a sucker for French honey spice cake. Another promising idea for Lavender Syrup, came from http://www.cafejohnsonia.blogspot.com/.

Lavender honey is luscious, but not this time around I mused; so why not create lavender syrup and drizzle it over the cake after it is baked? Thus, evolved Prune and Fennel Tea Bread Laced with Lavender Syrup, a dense loaf scattered with dried plums and toasted hazelnuts. It's a far cry from the Lavender Honey Spice Cake, but it was my starting point, and I appreciate the impetus. However, it is similar to the honey cake in that it improves with age. If you can bear it, wrap the loaf tightly and let it rest in the fridge a day or two to allow the flavors to meld; it’s well worth the wait. Try it in the afternoon with a cup of Earl Grey Tea.

I have some thoughts on Lavender Syrup. Lavender is known for its therapeutic and medicinal qualities, and can become seriously intense when overdone. This particular syrup is well balanced and intoxicatingly mild. It’s so enjoyable, that I have concocted a refreshing cooler which takes advantage of my current supply of Lavender Syrup: in a glass, muddle 1-2 Tbsp. Lavender Syrup and a sprig of mint, add ice and top it off with Sparkling Water with Lemon Essence.

Prune and Fennel Tea Bread Laced with Lavender Syrup
1/2 cup prunes (dried plums), about 10 large, seeded & lightly chop
1/4 cup hazelnuts, chopped, toasted
1 tablespoon fennel seeds, toasted
1 1/2 cups flour, optional: substitute 1/2 cup wheat flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 large eggs
2/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons butter, melted, cooled
2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil
1/2 cup yogurt, or sour milk
1 teaspoon vanilla or almond extract
1/2 cup Lavender Syrup (see below)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 9x5" loaf pan.

Combine prunes, nuts and fennel and set aside. Combine dry ingredients thru allspice and set aside.
In a mixing bowl, lightly beat eggs, then whisk in sugar until light. Whisk in melted butter, then the oil. Stir in 1/3 of the dry ingredients, then 1/2 of the combined yogurt and vanilla. Stir in another 1/3 of the dry, then the remaining milk and vanilla. Add the final dry ingredients and the fruit and nut mixture. Spread into loaf pan and bake 50-60 minutes until golden and pick inserted comes out clean.

Let the loaf stand briefly, then poke the loaf with a skewer. Slowly drizzle the syrup over the loaf. Let stand 10-15 minutes to allow syrup to soak in and remove the cake from pan. Cool on rack.

Wrapped well, this cake improves with age; if possible, allow the flavors to blend at a least a day or two.

Lavender Syrup
Inspired by
cafejohnsonia.blogspot.com
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
2-3 tablespoons lavender leaves or flowers
dash vanilla extract

Bring water and sugar to a boil, stir to dissolve, and simmer to thicken slightly, about 30 minutes.

Add lavender to syrup, remove from heat and let stand about 15 minutes; reheat to just below boiling point again and let stand about 15 minutes, repeat one more time, remove from heat and stir in vanilla; allow to steep until cool. Strain into bottle. Add a clean long stem of lavender for decoration if desired. Store in fridge. Let stand a couple of days before using.

Note: Culinary lavender may also be found at http://www.penzeys.com/

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Garden Salsa

Salsa has a long standing position of love, celebration, and sharing in our family. When my daughters were growing up, I learned to make salsa at the hands of a well-seasoned master, my father-in-law, Gene Graven. He was a colorful raconteur, a bigger-than-life character who lived an Ernest Hemmingway sort of existence. He loved the women; he was an avid fisherman, he hunted, worked and traveled extensively in Latin America, and he even dabbled in Hollywood films. Most of all, he loved life and he shared it with devilish generosity.

I thought of Grandpa Graven recently as I was making salsa from the garden. Although my salsas have varied over the years, his true basics are still included: garlic, onion, peppers, and tomatoes--beyond that, the skies the limit. On this occasion, I had plum tomatoes, a delicious lemon cucumber, a Hungarian pepper, garlic, and a Walla Walla onion to add to the mix. With a handful of cilantro and a good squeeze of lime, it was spot-on!

Of course, I slathered plenty of this salsa atop an excellent Chile Verde mentioned in a recent post. Boy was it good. I imagine Grandpa Gene is grinning in approval with an ever-present stogie perched from the corner of his lips, and he's mouthing the words, “Dos Equis.”

Mama Borah's Salsa
Similar to Grandpa Graven's salsa, especially handy when to
matoes are not plentiful
4 large tomatoes, seeded, cut up
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano (optional)
4 jalapeno peppers, seeded, minced
1 small can Ortega chilies, chopped
1/2 large Vidalia onion, chopped
1/4 cilantro, optional
1 pound canned tomatoes, drained and seeded, chopped
1/2 lime, juice of
1/2 teaspoon salt, pepper

To prepare manually, chop or mince all items and place in a molcajete or a mortar and pestle; crush tomatoes through onions and cilantro. If unavailable, use a medium bowl and a clean small slender bottle such sauce bottle, and press down to break up fibrous pieces. Add the chopped tomatoes and grind again; season to taste with lime juice, salt and pepper.

To use a food processor, lightly pulse tomatoes through onion and cilantro. Add canned tomatoes and pulse briefly, do not over process. Add lime juice, salt and pepper, and adjust seasoning. Makes about 3 cups. ~~

Sunday, September 6, 2009

Meditation on Chile Verde

With the big Oregon State/Boise game scheduled for prime time viewing this past week, I wanted to have a big pot of piping hot Chile Verde ready when hunger hit. I am so glad for the forethought, because as it turned out for this Oregonian, the chili was the high point (no pun intended) of the night. In a nutshell, Boise controlled the game and left us in their dust. It didn’t stop there; low points kept coming when Oregon’s LeGarrette Blount decided to deck a Boise teammate for heckling him post game. The remembrance of this bungled match-up was even more unsettling as fans watched while Blount was escorted/dragged off the field, screaming and kicking like a spoiled child.
Thank heavens the Chile Verde was deliciously soothing! Although I had little doubt about that--since preparing chili, in one form or other, should be an act of love. Excellent chili is a thoughtful process that requires several steps and a certain amount of time and effort.
As far as I am concerned, the ultimate flavor of Chile Verde depends on the addition of pork. In this case, I begin with a lean sirloin pork roast and cut it into chunks. I brown it well, and allow it to slowly simmer until fork tender and the liquid has pretty much cooked away. Then, I pull it apart with a couple of forks until it falls into shreds.
While the pork browns, simmers, and stews, I launch into prepping the very easy verde sauce. I begin by husking, and simmering a dozen tomatillos for the base. When they are soft, I drain off a portion of the liquid and puree them in the blender until thick. I prep a handful of jalapeno peppers, a couple of bell peppers, and an onion into strips. (In the past, I have also used ripe and flavorful poblano peppers--instead of the bell peppers, which can be fairly bland.)

Adding separate layers of flavor to the pork intensifies the final result; so this is when the onions, peppers and garlic are added to the pork and allowed to soften. Following that, another round of seasoning is added with cumin, oregano, chili powder - and perhaps a bit of smoked paprika, which mysteriously lurks in the background. All of this is lovingly tossed together until aromatic. The tomatillo sauce is stirred in and allowed to simmer into the pork a few minutes; then the cooked beans are added, the pot is reduced to low, and barely simmered for an hour or so.

Of course, chili is always best when the flavors further develop by refrigerating overnight. Here, the tomatillos provide a tarter, more acidic flavor than the tomatoes. The amount of heat can be controlled by the removal/addition of the membrane and seeds of the chiles used. Of course, jalapenos and poblanos are hotter than bell peppers. On final, I stir in the crowning touch, a handful of chopped cilantro--which further enhances the tomatillos with a pronounced herbal-citrus bite. I like mine with a drizzle of chive crema. Be still my heart.
Chile Verde
2 1/2 pounds pork roast, cut up
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon oregano
6 jalapeno peppers, seeded and chopped
2 bell peppers, seeded and chopped
1 whole onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chile powder, and/or smoked paprika
2 teaspoons cumin
12 tomatillos, halved, 1/2 cup chopped onion, pinch oregano simmered til tender
4 - 12 oz. cans assorted beans: red, black, pink, white, etc., rinsed and drained
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons cornmeal, thinned in 1/2 cup water (optional)
1/2 cup chopped cilantro (optional)


In a large pot brown the pork, add onion and garlic and toss until aromatic. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover with water and simmer until fall apart tender, and liquid is absorbed; one hour or longer.

Prepare tomatillos: remove husks, if large cut in half; rinse and place in a saucepan with 1/2 cup chopped onion and a pinch of oregano; add water to barely cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until tomatillos are soft, about 15 minutes. Allow to cool. Place in blender and puree; set aside.

When the pork is tender, break chunks up with a fork to lightly shred. Add peppers, onion and garlic and toss until aromatic and onion becomes soft. Add chili powder, cumin, and toss till aromatic. Pour in the tomatillo sauce and simmer briefly. Add the beans and toss to combine simmer 45 minutes; if you wish to thicken it further, stir in cornmeal thinned in water and continue to simmer until thick another 15 to 20 minutes. Adjust seasoning. Stir in cilantro, if desired and serve. Serves 8.

Note: for Chive Crema: stir 2 Tbsp chopped chives into 2 cups yogurt until desired consistency. Add a dash of salt and taste for seasoning. Let stand a few minutes before serving to blend flavors. ~~








Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Blueberry Bread and Bunko

I was invited to attend a birthday celebration for my 87 year old neighbor this past weekend and wanted to bake Alice a small treat for her enjoyment later. I also needed to return recently borrowed camping gear to another friend and wanted to take along a little thank you gift for her, too.
Gift loaves of Blueberry Hazelnut Bread came to mind, since I’m still dealing with the balance of my last blueberry picking foray. Oregon blueberries are compact little morsels that aren’t terribly sweet, and to compensate for that, I wanted to add another ingredient that could offer up a little more natural sweetness and moisture. In my recipe collection, I found a cleaver idea: crushed pineapple.
Frequently, sweet breads can be loaded with oil--which I find completely unnecessary and unimaginative. Applesauce has long been regarded as a beneficial and handy substitute for some of that excess oil; so, why not pineapple? The only caveat I might offer, is to drain the pineapple well; if you add some of the lovely pineapple liquor, do so sparingly, because the batter thins quickly.
When making blueberry muffins, I like the gentle addition of a tiny bit of nutmeg. Here instead, allspice is used, which is the heavy hitter in the nutmeg spice spectrum—and is a true and loving companion to pineapple. These flavors are instrumental in Caribbean cuisine, so perhaps this is also a slight homage to an idyllic month long stay in Grenada, the heart of nutmeg and allspice country.
Quick breads are by name, easy to create; I used a mixer, but a good whisk would incorporate the eggs and sugar just as well. In the past I have made similar breads to round out luncheon plates, and the slight sweetness of fruit bread is the perfect accompaniment with a chicken or seafood salad. However, if you are baking a stand alone tea bread for general snacking, a couple spoonfuls of brown sugar added to the granulated sugar will give a slight bump in the sweetness.
Since these were gifts, I finished the loaves with a drizzle of confectioner’s sugar thinned with lemon juice. After they were cooled and firmly set, I wrapped them in colorful plastic film gathered up and tied with raffia bows.
As a footnote, the loaves were a huge success. I spent the afternoon with Alice’s friends and family experiencing my first ever Bunko phenomenon – a spirited dice game, where one moves from table to table lured by laughter and high stakes. I carried home a bite-size chocolate bar as one of the top three winners. Now, I feel as if I am firmly planted in Oregon. What’s next, Bingo?
 
Blueberry Hazelnut BreadThis slightly sweet bread is good with luncheon salad—chicken or crab. Inspired by Elizabeth Terry’s Savannah Seasons
2 1/2 cups flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon allspice
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
4 eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons vanilla
1 cup crushed pineapple in natural juice, drained
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted, chopped
2 cups blueberries

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spray with oil, two - 6 cup loaf pans.

Sift dry ingredients. In mixer, beat eggs with sugar until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the oil and vanilla and beat well, and stir in the dry ingredients.

Fold in the pineapple, nuts and berries, and pour into pans. Bake 1 hour, turn out and cool on rack before slicing with serrated knife. Yield: 2 loaves ~~

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Into the Wilderness

For the past three weekends I have been a sublimely happy camper enjoying the great outdoors as part of a Forest Ecology class. Our first outing was a two day trip where we hiked part of the Pacific Crest Trail and became familiar with Douglas Firs and hemlocks. On our following trip we headed to the Redwoods for a long and utterly magical weekend walking the beach of the Pacific ocean and exploring lush fern canyons. Our final trip was a stunning overnighter to Crater Lake; here we breathed in the high desert pine air and were awed by intense volcanic history and Indian lore.
I had visited all of these places in the past, but this was indeed different. Our instructor was a bundle of information and enthusiasm—and we all jumped on board with her; overnight we literally became “Tree Huggers.” (It’s actually one way to measure a tree’s girth.)

We learned about the necessity of fire in the wilderness—it is nature’s way of renewing itself. We learned the critical importance of balance in nature; when one species disappears, it affects an entire community. I didn’t know that the redwood tree is fire resistant, and that its ability to retard fire partially accounts for its longevity. The redwood is our tallest and most primitive tree, and sadly, we are left with only a handful, and these are protected primarily in the preserves of Northern California and Southern Oregon. Over the last couple of centuries we have sliced and diced these ancient marvels almost to extinction, and have managed to nearly eliminate what it took nature thousands of years to create.

As you can well imagine, the discussion of food was a serious and ongoing conversation among our ranks. We did some fine dining which included such extravagant camp treats as: smoked brisket, burgers, and bratwurst. Breakfast was often on our own; or some made piles of egg burritos, or other such treats. As long as I had my pressed coffee in the morning I was very happy. To round this out, I decided to make ahead a stack of my old sailing favorite, Eggs McBorah, a convenient breakfast enjoyed while underway, traveling or other limited conditions.These solid morsels pack well; they are nearly non-destructive, and highly satisfying.

You’ve probably surmised that we are talking shades of Eggs McMuffin and you certainly do not require a recipe; but here is one alternative for planning and execution purposes. I have also learned that this is one breakfast that goes down with equal enthusiasm hot, room temperature, or cold.


Eggs McBorah
4 eggs
spray oil
4 slices chiplotle cheese, or as needed
fresh ground pepper
4 slices smoked ham, thin sliced, or more if needed
4 English muffins, spit, toasted and lightly buttered
1 or more ramekins, or other small microwaveable dishes

Spray the ramekins and lay 1 or 2 slices of ham in bottom of ramekin. Crack 1 egg into each dish, break the yolk with a sharp knife, and sprinkle with a few grinds black pepper. Top the eggs with thinly sliced cheese. Cover the top with a paper towel, tuck under the dish and place in microwave oven.

Cook one at a time for approximately 40 seconds or until cheese is melted and top is firm. The yolk should still be slightly runny. Carefully remove with mitts or towel, the dish will be hot. Run a knife around edge to loosen the egg and invert onto the top slice of a toasted English muffin.

Add the bottom slice and set upright. Repeat with remaining 3, or as many as needed. Allow to cool before wrapping. Can be made ahead; store in refrigerator or other cool spot. ~~


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