I will always remember the last leg of my flight into Querétaro, Mexico
for the spectacular night display that played out as we blasted through the
heavens. The sky was so incredibly brilliant I realized I had forgotten stars
could be so dazzling. I dozed off well into Mexican territory since it was
difficult to detect much below, with only long sporadic stretches of darkness. Occasionally I’d snap to and peer out my
window. Finally, nests of twinkling clusters
started sprouting up and I could see small isolated communities bound together by
their shared light.
As we approached Querétaro, to my left the full moon floated above
the eastern horizon; and to my right there were wide swatches of twinkling
lights: nightlife so brilliant they reminded me of diamonds set into a regal
crown. It was quite the welcome.
This morning flew; by time I had sorted myself out it was late
and I was in serious need of coffee and a light breakfast. After a failed start at my own mesón, I headed toward one
of the major zocalos in search of a café.
It was still mid-morning, but by the time I settled at a table I
had abandoned the idea of a light meal altogether. Instead I opted for Enchiladas Queretanas, a local specialty of tortillas fried until
soft, then dipped into a heated chile sauce and filled with various items; mine had chopped potatoes and grated local cheese. And the food kept coming: a basket of fresh chips and bread, more of
the warmed salsa, and a plate piled high with tropical mango, pineapple and
melon. Welcome to Querétaro!
Intermittently the server and I tried to sort out the coffee con leche issue: first take was a cinnamon flavored
pre-sweetened drink similar to coffee in the Bahamas. On a second try he
brought warm milk and presented me with a jar of their best Nescafe. One more time; I simply asked for more hot coffee
to add to my flavored warmed milk. Okay,
I was difficult and still grappling with US mentality: bad gringa. I need to get over myself and embrace the
local customs. Since he was so patient,
I tipped him extravagantly.
The downtown El Centro
area seems be peppered with beautiful tree lined plazas; the zócalos feature a fountain with benches
all surrounded by shops and cafes. Each one reflects the people who
frequent it the most. By the time I
discovered the Convento de la Cruz
and its plazas, I had sufficiently gorged myself enough that I passed on the
incredible food these locals were offering.
One woman had her specialty organized in a series of colorful woven
bags. A fresh stack of deep blue tortillas cooked
flat and crisp first caught my eye. In
another bag, the main topping looked to be pumpkin or squash; when asked, she
explained it was potatoes,colored by a red chile sauce. It looked similar to my earlier Querétana
sauce, which must be a local specialty.
I find out and get back to you on that!