Magnificent Obsession: Blueberries, Hazelnuts and Chocolate

It’s blueberry season in Oregon again.  Since there is an organic blueberry farm just down the road from my house, one afternoon recently I dropped everything and made a dash for the blueberry patch. 

As thunder clouds rumbled in the distance, I donned the harness that holds the bucket in place and headed to a promising row nearby.  I sampled a few as I checked the bushes for quality and quantity.  Yes indeed, it was another good year:  they were succulent and sweet. 

 

I’ve learned that under the long leafy branches plump clumps of berries are frequently overlooked by other pickers.  I held the branches over my bucket and went to town, filling my hands while allowing the bucket to catch the fat juicy ones that inadvertently fell as I picked.  Within about 1 ½ hours I had collected four pounds of berries and was on my way home when the storm hit. 

Back at the house, I sorted through my haul removing random leaves, attached stems, unripe or bruised berries; then carefully rinsed them.  I set aside a large bowlful for immediate snacking, cooking and sharing, laid the rest out onto baking sheets, and popped them into the freezer for later bagging and storage.   

I had bigger plans on my agenda and already knew what I wanted next.  One of the reasons for the frantic run to the berry farm was to satisfy my re-occurring blueberry smoothie dreams.  This was not any smoothie, mind you; this one was going to be a humdinger.  Blueberries and hazelnuts are big crops here in Oregon and I have long recognized their affinity and have especially enjoyed them together in salads. 

On this day, it was all about that jar of Nutella sitting in my pantry, and the magical combination of hazelnuts and chocolate.  All forms of berries partner up beautifully with chocolate.  Why not blueberries, hazelnuts and chocolate ― in a smoothie?  I may be delusional, but I considered this a smoothie of potentially magnificent proportions.

As I pull out blender ingredients I recall my whirlwind frozen yogurt episodes utilizing instant pudding mix.  I’m passing on the yogurt ― too jolting with the berries.  I reach for low fat milk instead, and add only a dash of the pudding mixture to ensure a thick creaminess. I grab the vanilla to enhance the flavors and pull out ice cubes to increase the chill factor. 

I’ve now tried several renditions and prefer to back off on the Nutella (really?) just a tad to allow the glorious blueberries to shine through.  There is a delicate balance between the luscious chocolate-hazelnut blend and the gentle berry flavors. Surprisingly, 2 tablespoons of Nutella seems too much, and 1 tablespoon is not quite enough.  You be the judge. 

This makes two filling servings, but I assure you, it’s easy to polish it all off by yourself ― once you get started.

Blueberry Obsession: Blueberry, Hazelnut and Chocolate Smoothie

Ingredients

·         1 ½ cups blueberries, fresh or frozen

·         1 Tbsp. white chocolate instant pudding mix

·         1 ½ Tbsp. Nutella (1 heaping tablespoon)

·         1 cup low fat milk

·         ½ tsp. vanilla

·         1 cup crushed ice

Directions 

Place all ingredients in blender container and blend for two minutes.  Pour into tall glasses and serve with straws. Serves 2.

A Complete Life

When it comes to life’s pleasures―and food is surely one of them, my life is far richer when there is an herb garden planted nearby.  I’ve learned it doesn’t have to be much, but there is something hugely fulfilling about kneeling amongst fresh herbs and gathering a supply to complement my cooking.  

The smell of the earth combined with the scent of freshly cut herbs restores me.   I love the perfume left behind on my skin from the oils of their bruised leaves.  On my kitchen sink, a small vase of herbs further inspires me; it brightens the space and continues to welcome all who enter. 

When I’ve lived in cold climates sage and rosemary were enough to sustain me.  In tropical locales, basil and perhaps cilantro were often my regulars.  Now, in a moderate region, I’m very fortunate to have a well rounded supply of oregano, chives, rosemary, summer and winter savory, English and lemon thyme, and purple and yellow sage.  A few of the tougher ones survive winter’s rain and snow, while fragile chives and some of the thyme, hunker in and return again when it warms up.   

Recently the thyme, savory, and oregano began going to seed.  It was time to do a quick thinning and cut them back before they became too leggy and awkward.  While I was at it, I cut everyone back and brought the residual crop inside to dry.  I laid it all out on sheet pans for a couple of days to begin the process―then moved it all to a large bowl and lightly covered it to further dry. 

This herb blend has become a real staple in my kitchen.  It may vary slightly depending on amounts and varieties used, but it is always surprisingly similar.  The winter savory, sage, and rosemary give it deep aromatic complexity while the thyme, summer savory, and oregano balance and brighten it.  Amazingly, all these unique elements seem to come together and create a distinct flavor and scent. 

I’ve always been a big herb salt fan and it didn’t take me long to figure out it was time to make my own.  Since then, herb salt has become a regular and recognizable part of my cooking.   I have resorted to regularly creating a similar blend with kosher salt.  I jazz it up a bit for gifts and special occasions by including unique grades of sea salt such as pink Himalayan or a fleur de sel.    

 

This herb salt blend has become my standard for sprinkling on eggs, pizza and in mixed salad dressings.  When roasting, it is my go-to seasoning for chicken and fish.  

I wish you could smell my latest batch of herbal salt.   There’s a slight whiff of pine trees and desert trails, lush floral notes, and lilting wafts of citrus. It is crazy that a jar of herbs and salt could anchor me to the land and resonate of the hills and valleys that surround me. 

Yes, it's true, though; my herb salt blend actually does provide an identifiable sense of place. 
 

Midnight Special

Over a year ago, I became a full -fledged Bob’s Red Mill groupie while attending a millet cooking class at their store in Milwaukie, Oregon. Not only was the class fun and informative, the level of employee pride was infectious. I was immediately caught up in their enthusiasm ― and amazed by the line of products that they produce and sell. I was smitten.

Bob’s Red Mill is a Pacific Northwest producer of whole grains and other natural products.  Bob Moore's vision of quality and innovation created an industry model and when he got ready to retire a few years back, the employees took over operations and have continued to maintain Bob’s high standards and attention to detail.   

The Bob's Red Mill Blog  is also a great resource for preparing popular as well as lesser known grains and seeds such as amaranth and teff. Since the millet class I've tried many of Bob's other products, but the hearty and nutty steel cut oats remain a favorite.

When Bob’s third annual Spar for the Spurtle contest was announced on their blog not too long ago, I was immediately intrigued. This competition is a precursor to the international event held in Scotland, where it is all about preparing the perfect porridge.  In fact, the spurtle refers to an ancient wooden rod originally used to stir oats into submission and affect the perfect porridge. 

In the US competition Bob’s only requires that steel cut oats are used as the main ingredient; which greatly opens up the field of play.  However, there are still a few other tricky caveats:  the dish must be prepared on only two burners, use no other appliances, and must be completed within 30 minutes.  (Note:  the oats require between 10-20 minutes cooking time.)    

For the past two weeks I have been committed to solving this rubix cube ― as well as creating a tasty and attractive entry.  Wait, there was one other requirement:  submit a three-minute video on the recipe.  Of course, this is presented in such an off-handed manner:  “a simple video from your smart phone will do”.  How hard could that be?   

I will not bore you with the recipe development,  my foray into filming, or the crash course in video editing.  Suffice to say, I submitted my less than professional two-minute version on time (this past Monday's deadline) and very glad to have it all behind me. 

Happily, I am still not tired of the tasting the fantastic Country Oat Hash―nested with a perfectly cooked egg and a zingy lemon-mustard sauce. The oats shine in taste and texture, yet are fully complemented by onions, carrots and mushrooms; all are punctuated by a balanced assortment of  fresh herbs (or dried fines herbes) and exotic spices (or four-spice blend).  In 30 minutes, I also pull off the perfect egg mollet―a firm-cooked egg with a moist center― as well as a zingy lemon-mustard sauce that brings everything to life. 

It’s my Midnight Special; but it is equally good any time of the day, and definitely special enough for friends.  Try it―I think you’ll like.  

Country Oat Hash Nested with Egg and Lemon-Mustard Sauce

Country Oat Hash  
Ingredients
 1 cup Bob’s Red Mill Steel Cut Oats, presoaked 10 minutes in boiling water and drained
 2 Tbsp. butter, divided

1 onion, chopped

2 medium carrots, chopped

1½ cups mushrooms, chopped

1 tsp. four spice or ¼ tsp. each nutmeg, allspice, ginger and cayenne

½ tsp. each salt and black pepper

1½ tsp. fines herbes, or 1 tsp. each fresh thyme, marjoram, savory and sage

2 Tbsp. fresh parsley, on finish

Instructions 
1.       Toast the oats in a non-stick skillet for 3  minutes.

2.       In deep skillet, sauté onion in 1 Tbsp. butter; add carrot, the spices, and cook 3 minutes.

3.       Add mushrooms, salt and pepper and cook to release the liquid.

4.       Still in the toasted oats with 1 Tbsp. butter, and then the herbs. Cook the hash over moderate heat 3-4 minutes; lower heat slightly, cover and cook 3-4 minutes longer, until the oats are gently cooked.  Stir in the parsley, remove from heat, keep covered and let rest until eggs are ready. 

To Prepare Egg Mollet
Ingredients
4 eggs, room temperature

3 cups water, or enough to cover eggs 

Instructions
1.       Bring the eggs and water to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 3½ to 4 minutes.  Drain. 
2.       Rinse eggs with cold water and set in ice water bath to stop the cooking.  Let rest 5 minutes.
3.       Crack the eggs and gently peel under cold tap water.
4.       Hold in warm water bath. 
 

Lemon-Mustard Sauce

Ingredients
1 tsp. lemon and ½ tsp. lemon zest

1 tsp. brown mustard

2 tsp. stone ground mustard

¼ tsp. each salt and black pepper

2 Tbsp. olive oil

1 cup plain yogurt 
Instructions 
1.       Combine all through salt and pepper and whisk in oil to form an emulsion. 

2.       Fold into yogurt and let stand at least 10 minutes to blend flavors.

When ready, on medium-sized plates mound each with a heaping cup of Country Oat Hash and make a deep indentation in the center.  Set a warm peeled egg mollet into each oat hash nest, drape a portion of the egg with the Lemon-Mustard Sauce and dab additional around the edges of the hash. Serves 4. 

Caldo Tlalpeño

Here’s a soup that is right up there with the ever-popular Mexican Tortilla Soup.  A friendly relative recently wanted to know if I had a recipe for Caldo Tlalpeño―apparently a popular Mexican soup made with chicken, garbanzo beans and vegetables. Huh,  I didn’t have a clue; but it  was enough to set off  flashing lights and whistling bells because garbanzos are one of my favorite beans. I cannot get enough of their hearty flavor and texture.  Give me hummus any day; I sprinkle beans onto salads and include them in entrees to replace or extend meat.    

Since I had never heard of this soup, I was completely flummoxed, and based on its build-up I was really missing the boat.  This is when the internet becomes invaluable.  Before I could get my soup pot out and heated up I was ready to head back to Mexico and try the real deal.  I quickly learned that one of the signature elements of the soup is adobo, a robust smoky sauce soaked with chipotle peppers. 

Caldo Tlalpeño originates from Tlalpan, a highly revered ecological borough in the Federal District of Mexico City.  This heavily forested region has retained much of it provincial charm and is deeply rooted in its Mesoamerican heritage.   Who knew?

After consulting several different sites and recipes, I channeled my Querétaro señora and proceeded.  I started with a rotisserie chicken, the basis of many of my stocks these days.  A note on making a delicious and easy chicken stock: I’ve learned that while the chicken is still warm and moist from the market, the meat will literally fall off the bone and within 3 or 4 minutes it is completely deboned.  

For the stock, place the heap of bones in a soup pot, cover with 6 to 8 cups water, and simmer with onion and carrot trimmings left from the pre-prepped soup ingredients.  Add a stalk of celery or about ½ tsp. celery seed, a couple sprigs of thyme, a bay leaf, and few grinds of fresh pepper.  Bring to a boil and simmer for about one hour.  Strain the stock and allow it to cool and chill until needed.  When chilled, skim off any unnecessary fat congealed on top of the stock, and proceed.   

The soup can be prepared and is ready to eat in about 45 minutes but it is as good or better the next day.  The key ingredient, the adobo, varies greatly according to maker.  The day I made mine, I noticed the sauce was quite mild―primarily a tomato puree flavored with the chipotle.  You will need to bravely taste your adobo and use your judgment.  I’ve learned that in Mexico, the soup can range from mild to extremely hot.  Err on the side of caution the first time that you try a new adobo sauce; you can always add more!  I ended up using 2 chipotle peppers, seeded and chopped plus about 3 tbsp. of the adobo sauce.  My soup was spicy hot, but not a scorcher.  The following day, it was even milder. 

As with Tortilla Soup, tableside toppings are part of the fun and add to the full flavor of Caldo Tlalpeño.  A few squirts of fresh lime will brighten it; crumbled or grated cheese such as Cotija or other queso fresco offer a lingering saltiness; and cilantro leaves provide perky citrus and herbal notes.  Enjoy with tortilla chips or crush a few and sprinkle them on top, too.   

Caldo Tlalpeño 

Inspired by Gourmet, October 1993, per Epicurious 

Ingredients 

1 rotisserie chicken deboned, 2 – 3 cups meat, cut up; use the bones for quick stock

1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 onion, peeled and cut into medium chop

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 carrots, peeled and cut into medium chop

1 tsp dried oregano

8 cup chicken stock, approximately

1 plum tomato, seeded and chopped

2 drained canned whole chipotle chilies in adobo, seeded and chopped, plus 2-3 Tbsp. sauce

2 cups cooked chick-peas, rinsed and drained

1 ear corn, husk, remove silk and cut into ¾” rounds (optional)

1 zucchini, cut into medium chop

½ tsp. each salt and pepper

Toppings:  1 lime cut into wedges, 1 cup Cotijo, Panela or other crumbled or grated cheese, 1 cup cilantro leaves, 1 avocado, cut up.  Tortilla chips. 

Instructions            

1.       In a large heavy saucepan cook the onion in the oil over moderate heat, stirring, until it is softened, stir in the garlic, carrots and oregano and cook the mixture, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the reserved broth to the vegetable mixture with the tomato and the chipotles, adobo sauce, the corn and the garbanzos; simmer the soup for 15-20 minutes. 

2.       Add the zucchini, add salt and pepper; adjust seasoning,  and simmer 10 minutes.  The soup may be prepared up to this point 1 day in advance and kept covered and chilled.

 To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and add toppings as desired:  lime wedges, cheese, cilantro and serve with tortilla chips.  Yield:  6 servings.